[T3] Arc's sparks and missing the mark's

[Keith Park]

Just the bottom, valve free'd up nicely

Keith

Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
http://www.topnotchresto.com
71 Squareback  "Hothe"
65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
93 RX7  "Redstur"
95 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi "Cirfogsalot"
"hanging out at the tail end of the bell
curve, and loving every minute of it!" 

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of William Jahn
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2019 1:38 PM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Arc's sparks and missing the mark's

Keith , what I was asking is if you removed the valve itself or just the
bottom where the heater is.

William

On Thu, Jun 20, 2019 at 10:47 AM William Jahn <willjahn975 at gmail.com> wrote:

> just did the AAR on my 73 cut slots with a razor saw bent them up . what
> seemed to cause mine to stick open was a fine surface rust in the valves
> bore. I tried to clean the oil gunk out which carb cleaner spray did. The
> valve is stainless the valve bore is steel . I think it's the moisture
> which all air has no matter oil bath or paper filter . The moisture causes
> fine surface rust to form in the bore and scores it then this gives
> something for the oil gunk to cling to rather than pass by. I polished the
> valve and bore and then the valve moved freely. The only thing I didn't
> think to do was lube the valve. I wasn't sure if I should use a light
> coating of engine oil or thin grease. I can always place some oil on the
> valve even after I crimped it back together maybe SAE 40 so it does not
> leak down into the heating coil then just apply power to cycle the valve
to
> allow the oil to lightly coat the bore just to prevent rust. I have not
> idea when made it they lubed the valve. The rust seems to take decades to
> develop . It's a fine rust yet abrasive enough to slightly score the bore
> and the valve. If I need to open it again I will not recrimp yet use small
> machine screws and perhaps a thin gasket . The most difficult part was
> getting the air filter end pipe back in place since it needs to be removed
> the clean the valve and bore.
>
>  Keith did you remove the valve?
>
> William
>
> On Mon, Jun 17, 2019 at 6:27 PM Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Well I opened the heated AAR, its not difficult to roll the lip up with
>> the
>> right set of sharp end cutters, it looks worse than it is, then it opens
>> right up.  Jim is right, the adjustment controls length of time its open,
>> unlike the L jet kind.  I needed all the open hose could give me so I
>> dremeled out the slot opening as much as I could, cleaned and lube it and
>> put it back together with epoxy.  Just about right now, 1000 RPM idle
when
>> started and warms up just fine.
>>
>> there is usually a way to make something do what you need if your willing
>> to
>> go all the way...
>>
>> Keith
>>
>>
>> Topnotch Restorations
>> topnotch at nycap.rr.com
>> http://www.topnotchresto.com
>> 71 Squareback  "Hothe"
>> 65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
>> 93 RX7  "Redstur"
>> 95 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi "Cirfogsalot"
>> "hanging out at the tail end of the bell
>> curve, and loving every minute of it!"
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
>> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
>> On Behalf Of Jim Adney
>> Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2019 10:02 AM
>> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
>> Subject: Re: [T3] Arc's sparks and missing the mark's
>>
>> On 7 Jun 2019 at 22:48, Keith Park wrote:
>>
>> > BTW, the automatic heated AAR's ARE adjustable, you just have to pull
>> the
>> > lip back to get them apart and that can be a bit of a challenge, but
>> once
>> > inside, it has the same adjustable slot that the engine heated T3 units
>> > do.
>>
>> That adjusts the full opening and closing temps, but not the amount of
>> air
>> that gets thru. I thought you were wanting more air, not just more air at
>> intermediate temps.
>>
>> There was a thread on thesamba about taking these apart a few years ago.
>> Interesting, but more work than most of us would ever want to go thru. I
>> was
>>
>> under the impression that the steel lip that had to be uncurled was
>> really
>> thick and strong; seemed like something that would fight you all the way.
>> I
>> didn't remember that there was an adjustment inside.
>>
>> I've never tried to open one. It just seemed like one of those things
that
>> you'd
>> have to almost destroy to get it apart.
>>
>> --
>> *******************************
>> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
>> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>> *******************************
>>
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>
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