[T3] Two issues.AAR and CHT.

[William Jahn]

I took apart the electric AAR it was not difficult. The heater coil works.
What I found was the valve was binding . I first tried to clean in with
carb spray with the until up side down . This seemed to remover the old oil
didn't solve the binding. I found fine surface rust on the AAR valve bore
since it's steel the valve is stainless. What seemed to happen is the fine
rust slightly scored the bore and piston so I polished that out and lightly
oiled the bore with SAE 40 , I later thought anti seize might be a better
choice . I had to remove the oil bath pipe on top to get the valve out. It
came out easy yet was difficult to reinstall because the peens prevent it
from seating , I just filed off some of the peen and it went in and peened
it with a ice pick . I cut around the crimp with a razor saw and when done
bent the crimps back. I feel it would be easier and better to remove the
crimp leave a lip and use 6 -32 machine screws and a thin gasket so I could
take it apart easy next time I will do this. Now it closes fully every
time.

 I checked the CHT it read 3K ohm @ 72*F from what I could  find on
rennlist they have a chart showing 2300K ohm @68*F . I bought a new one
which is not made by Bosch since they are NLA and it seems to read what it
should . I will change it and see if this helps it run better . I have no
way of checking actual fuel to air without a sniffer so I have no idea if
rich or lean . The MPG is bad yet on the other hand from all I can find as
I stated before with the air temp sensor plugged in it runs fine for the
first 10 minutes then begins to develop this erratic miss only in a no load
condition and the ATS unplugged makes the mix richer and it does not have
as much as a sweep as the CHT .
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