[T3] Since I replaced the runner boots and all vacuum lines noticed

Keith Park topnotch at nycap.rr.com
Wed Jun 5 16:23:50 PDT 2019

On a related note, has anyone ever come up with a way to adjust the flow in
the heated AAR's they used on the Automatic's?  They used the T4 one on the
auto's right?  I really need to raise the cold idle speed on the 2056 but
they dont look adjustable, even if I get creative.


Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
71 Squareback  "Hothe"
65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
93 RX7  "Redstur"
95 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi "Cirfogsalot"
"hanging out at the tail end of the bell
curve, and loving every minute of it!" 
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of William Jahn
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2019 6:07 PM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Since I replaced the runner boots and all vacuum lines noticed

 That once started the RPM is 1,000 then soon climbs to 1200 to 1300 and
even when warmed up once placed in park it takes a few seconds to climb up
and then stays there. The issue I was trying to fix was it idled better
with the IAD temp sensor unplugged , now if i plug it in cold it's fine yet
once it warms up a bit the idle speed will still drop 200 rpm. It's better
than before other than the idle. It takes the electric AAR a while to close
and I set the RPM with the engine warmed up and the AAR plugged then the
idle was 1,000 RPM. So the AAR is not closing fully all the time , I will
see if I can spray something in there to clean it maybe free it up. It
seems the closing of the AAR and the IAD temp sensor have a relationship.
In other words if the AAR does not fully close it may lean out the mix just
enough since it is a sort of vacuum leak that maybe the pressure sensor
tries to compensate for yet might not be able to, as well as keep the idle
higher than it should be. I know how it used to work and never had a high
idle or issues with the temp sensor connected.

 This has been an issue since 2009 . I do know the AAR is getting 12 volts
and the heater works.

 I did adjust the TPS it was a bit off meaning it didn't reach the first
enrichment contact soon enough it was 1 mark too far CCW now it works right
when the throttle opens when before I could open the throttle a bit
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