[T3] 73 AAR.

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Mon Jun 17 13:44:09 PDT 2019

I tried to clean it upside down with carb spray several times , does not
work . Even upside down carb cleaner still enters the coil metal housing.

 I had to take it apart. used a razor saw to cut slots about 1/4" apart an
a tiny pair of channel locks to bend the tabs and remove the valve housing.
The heating coil looks good about 15 ohm and works only a small amount of
dry oil was on the ceramic I cleaned off what I could. I used a drill bit
just smaller the the OIL bath pipe ID and it was easy to pull off difficult
to get back in. I had to file off some of each peen or the aluminum pipe
would never go in. I has to be lined up level then I supported the metal
valve base on blocks of wood placed a C clamp with a wood piece in the top
of the pipe and lined it all up and forced it down with the clamp and to
get it to seat fully still needed to tap the clamp with a small ball
peen.The used an ice pick to peen in 2 spots of the old flat peen.

 I was able to get the valve out after the thermal spring was removed and
was just able to rotate the valve just enough to line up the small roll pin
then taped the valve out with a plastic handle. I polished the valve and
bore cleaned the rest of the oil gunk out now it turns easy . You will
never get that baked on oil out without taking this thing apart . The valve
is open at the top oil bath end and has a key hole slot on the side. After
I got it all clean and and the pile back in place spring back on marked the
adjustment before for reference I placed the valve in the freezer and it
seems the large hole of the key hole slot was open and is the same size as
the vacuum pipe ID. It seems it's for very cold weather , the rest of the
slot is about 1/16" wide and not real deep about 1/16"  and it's length is
about as long and the larger hole diameter.

 All I need to do now is see where the valve is at room temp place the
valve assembly in the heater power it up and see if it closes fully and how
long it takes , if it does not close fully where the spring was adjusted I
will move the adjustment until it does then let it cool and try again till
I feel it's working as best it can be. As long as it opens enough and long
enough which it did before and closes all the way which it didn't it still
had a small amount of vacuum when it did decide to try to close and lately
the engine had to be hot and a tap of a small wrench would cause it to
almost close fully.

 Once it works I will bend the bent back tabs over and put it back. I
wanted to use small screws to hold the valve housing to the heater housing
didn't have enough machine screws you could used 4-40 or even 6-32 . I can
always do that later on the crimp will hold it I just don't like the saw
slots they are not wide since I used a razor saw I might cover the slots
with RTV haven't decided.

 Fun job hope I never need to do this again.

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