[T3] Got the runner boots and fuel line and intake gaskets done yet .

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Sat May 25 12:20:20 PDT 2019

The difficult part is I always double check everything and should have and
didn't. I noticed when I put the wires on 3 & 4 that 3 looked to short and
4 to long and had trouble fitting them in the holders, THAT should have
been the clue. I went over every fuel hose connection a few times even used
a mirror and flash light to see each hose and clamp were one proper ,
primed the system and checked for leaks. Of course before I removed the
lines from the engine to rear tunnel hard lines I clamped the lines under
the tank yet somehow even though I had a drain pan ready I put both clamps
on the pressure side so when I pulled the return line fuel just kept
pouring out. Then I go look I had one clamp before the damper and one
before the filter.

 I will say thank you for your responses that I did not ruin the engine. I
was up most of last night trying to picture the firing order and what valve
would be open when 3&4 plugs fired. Once I got the wires proper it fired
right up and sounded like it used to . When it was back firing I had a hand
near the exhaust tip and felt bits of maybe carbon even when it was not
back firing. I was so upset last night when I posted here that I could not
think. I didn't hear or see any or sound out the IAD like popping yet  the
idle was near 1300 and when I put it in drive and reverse it missed even
worse then quit. That's when I should have not tried to restart and just
thought and rechecked the wires , when I first tried starting it it would
crank then not start tried again and it would turn over then stop and sort
of sounded like it pushed back like a hissing sound I instantly released
the key.  When I did get it started again and was over the engine it would
run then pop once in a while and almost like it could be timed the engine
would jump once then stop doing that then soon after back fire.   I was so
tired I was not thinking clear. I know the mechanical engine does not
change it still injects fuel and still has closed valves and a compression
stroke what's different is when the plug fires. Still I want to understand
it so I will draw out which valves are open when like when one adjusts the
valves by doing #1 both and think #2 intake and think #4 exhaust then do
the crossed 3 &4 wires.

 I was real careful installing the runners and IAD to get them lined up
proper. Had the IAD bolts just snug placed the right runner on with now
nuts and got it so it would not rock and saw the IAD needed to be raised as
far as it would go then double checked before torquing the IAD then had the
injectors already mounted to both runners with the short hoses put the
runner in place washes and nuts just snug so I could position the runners
front /rear then torqued them down they lined up perfect. I used silicone
to get the new runner boots on and the new style everyone now sells are
thicker walled look like smaller versions of the tank filler hose even with
lots on silicone I still had to hold the runner pipe face down to force
them flush couldn't get them any further back. Then I sprayed silicone on
The IAD ends one at a time tried a block of wood and hammer would not budge
so I wrapped heavy cloth around #1 and used channel locks just against the
boot and tapped with a hammer minding the channel locks didn't hit anything
and once it moved i could tap it all the way on.  I did the same for the
left side and #4 lined up #3 had to come up 1/8" . I could not bend it by
hand , didn't want to clamp the gasket base in a vice in fear of damaging
it so I put it in place lined it up front/ rear 4 was right on torqued the
nuts and tried to bend up #3  with all I had couldn't . So I placed a large
hose clamp around the runner just near the boot just had the hose clamp
real loose put an S hook through the clamp and another S hook through that
a block on wood on the floor and used a 1/2" section or water pipe pulled
up easy and the runner moved up and was aligned. I'm not sure how other do
this. Perhaps with a bare runner clamped in a vice with wood on each face
and either use hand force or a pipe that fits perfect inside or over the
runner pipe. I didn't want to distort the round runner tube and didn't have
a pipe that would fit well. I did have a bit of fear that pulling up on the
runner the way I did would harm the intake gasket yet I doubt I used much
force the way I did it yet it was still a concern.

 Even though that Gates Barricade FI hose is 5/16" ID larger than 7mm it
went on easy on everything with some silicone lube except the two fuel
rails which have rather large end barbs . I had them on the injectors as
one always does yet trying to get the short hoses on the rail with a loose
FI clamp touching the injector clamp it would not go on enough I had to
slide the clamps off since it seemed they were not allowing the hose to
open up enough, that hose is some unforgiving stuff with the clamps off it
went on. I then carefully opened each clamp so not to deform them and got
them over the hose and closed them by hand and got the screw back in . i
just wanted fuel hose that would not fail for this fuel we have next time
I'll try a different brand I've been informed Belmetric  is good by Glenn
Ring, don't know if it's easier to work with.

 All this to say this was really a tough job with the engine in the car. I
did replace the spark plugs since it is easy with the runners off used NGK
B6HS and a tiny bit of anti seize cleaned the head threads with a chaser
just to remove any crud install till seat then 1/2 turn this is what NGK
suggests I did 1/4 turn didn't feel the crush washer crushed enough so 1/4
turn more using a 1/4" ratchet 5 " long handle felt like enough that 25 ft
lb's is far to much this way it should be 18 at most  . I asked them if I
could use anti seize and they said just use a little yet they recommend
none. When I had my heads done they installed timeserts since all the plug
holes had missing threads still I use anti seize just not as much as I used
to. One thing I noticed when replacing the injector seals they still looked
like new and they are 10 years old , when I changed them them and all the
times before they were always dry and really compressed as in close to two
3rd's their original thickness and this was always the case before. I could
see the larger ones were compressed which are what locates the injector and
also puts force on the small seals and I always had the metal sleeves so I
have no idea what changed.

 I replaced every vacuum line . Have to say on a late 72 or 73 that PCV
pipe off the back of the IAD makes thinks a lot more difficult it's in the
way of the front IAD bolt and other things. Needless to say I really
thought it was worse than crossed wires thought I had plugged injectors or
didn't get a head gasket to seal proper.

On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 6:49 AM Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com> wrote:

> long ago this was known as "pulling a Keith"
> if having my distributor loosen up on the highway coming back
> from Alabama didnt hurt anything then Im sure your OK,
> Keith
> Topnotch Restorations
> topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> http://www.topnotchresto.com
> 71 Squareback  "Hothe"
> 65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
> 93 RX7  "Redstur"
> 95 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi "Cirfogsalot"
> "hanging out at the tail end of the bell
> curve, and loving every minute of it!"
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of William Jahn
> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2019 9:41 PM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: [T3] Got the runner boots and fuel line and intake gaskets done
> yet
> .
> I got it all together then fired it up and it ran terrible, I had a hard
> time starting it and it was back firing . I could hear the exhaust was
> louder than ever . I put it in drive and it stalled out and could not get
> it restarted. When I tried to start it it sounded like it was fighting
> itself then it started and was back firing out the exhaust. If I pulled #4
> injector made no difference . Then I pulled each plug wire and found 3 & 4
> did nothing . I shut it off and checked the two plug wires and realized I
> crossed 3 & 4 I thought I new the firing order then counted 1 2 3 4 and
> found I had then crossed. After that it started right up .
>  I've never done this before in my life and now wonder if running it like
> this for 15 minutes could have done any damage. I know the back fire was
> because it fired with the exhaust open yet it didn't happen every time . I
> just can't think in my head or picture how issues the back firing can have
> as in stress on the rod bearings or is it just since the mechanical engine
> works the same and  gets fuel then fires with the exhaust open or part
> open. I feel so stupid , I'd rather it didn't start and I checked the wires
> yet some how got the 2 crossed.
> William
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