[T3] Stupid question #395 Oil change time?

Keith Park topnotch at nycap.rr.com
Tue May 28 17:43:34 PDT 2019

Im using Joe Gibbs DT50 in the 2056 now, yea, its synth and that burns my
but its the builders choice and I must admit, it holds its viscosity much
better than the brad penn did, I would not however, use it without a filter
and results in a T3 engine may be different than a T4.  Im my Notch Im using
the gibbs Dino 10W30


Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
71 Squareback  "Hothe"
65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
93 RX7  "Redstur"
95 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi "Cirfogsalot"
"hanging out at the tail end of the bell
curve, and loving every minute of it!" 
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of donrob at yachtsales.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2019 3:49 PM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Stupid question #395 Oil change time?

Lucas Oil makes oil specifically for classic cars:  

I have been using it for years with no problems, in air cooled to hard 
working V8 engines, and even in a GM 250 six in a combine.

You can get your local FLAPS to order it, it is made in the USA.

Don Robertson
905 566-0000
donrob at fastmail.com

On 2019-05-28 13:45, Jim Adney wrote:
> I think there are a few basic rules we can apply to oil changes.
> 1) Change it every 3000 miles, or at least once a year.
> 	a) Short trips are harder on an engine, but short means too short
> the
> 	engine to fully warm up.
> 	b) Warmup happens faster in warmer weather. 50 F may seem cool to
> 	you, but that's nothing compared to -20 F.
> 	c) If you don't have the complete thermostat, linkage, and flaps,
> 	installed, you should assume that your engine NEVER warms up.
> 2) If this car is going into storage for an extended time, change the
> oil first,
> so the engine sits with fresh oil, not contaminated oil.
> 3) Zinc, in the form of ZDDP, used to be an essential part of any 
> engine oil,
> but it poisons catylitic converters, so it's been dropped. Cars with 
> Cat Cons
> switched to non-ZDDP oils and roller cams, so now there are few 
> standard
> oils that are good for flat tappet engines. I THINK that any oil out 
> there that
> has the API seal on the front lacks ZDDP. You might find diesel oils 
> that lack
> this seal. (This API seal has a zig-zag border and is always found on 
> the
> front of the container, not to be confused with the smooth round 
> Service
> Rating on the back.)
> 	a) ZDDP is especially important during breakin of the cam. It may
> 	matter so much in a well broken-in engine.
> 	b) It sounds like GM's EOS is a good source for ZDDP.
> 	c) I'd be surprised if STP had ZDDP in it, as that would make it a 
> very
> 	bad choice for any modern engines. I'll check on that later this
> at
> 	my FLAPS.
> 4) Going to higher viscosity oils, like 20W-50 may seem like a good 
> choice,
> but that can be misleading. It takes more engine power to pump a high
> viscosity oil and it may take longer for the higher viscosity oil to
> reach critical
> places in the engine upon startup. High viscosity oil is a poor choice 
> for
> engines that spend a lot of time in warmup. This is not as simple a 
> problem
> as it might seem.
> I used 20W-50 only one time, when I had an oil leak. That slowed the 
> leak
> until I had a chance to fix it. My favorite oil would be 20W-40, but I 
> haven't
> seen that available for decades. I'm now using 15W-40 diesel oil that 
> lacks
> the API seal.
> I've never fogged my engines. In fact, I had to google it to find out 
> what this
> meant. Seems like it's especially popular in the 2-cycle world, but it 
> makes
> some sense. Anyone else out there do it?
> Quiz Question #1, for extra points: What does the W in 20W-50 stand 
> for?
> Quiz Question #2, for extra points: would 30W-30 have constant 
> viscosity?
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