[T3] Bosch plug wire question on coil wire .

[William Jahn]

I had no idea OE wires had screw in cap and coil ends. I can only imagine
what they were like, all I can picture if I were to do this they would have
to be a 90 degree boot with a 90 degree none removable piece similar to the
plug ends and for a resister in the coil end seems the rotor may not have
had a resister built in  unless it was a lower valve resistor in the rotor.

 My car had black plug wires when I got it, they were thinner and had the
same type plug ends, I don't recall what the cap ends looked like . they
were in such sorry shape even though I ran them for a year or so they were
brittle and arching I do recall the coil wire was solid core  . I never
checked what the cap ends were like. The cap was also dark brown instead of
the orange or sometimes black. I just bought a set of new Bosch wires from
a small independent shop here around 1987 and they were the same as the set
I have now. I'm not sure if the Bosch wires I have now are stainless or
tinned stranded copper. I didn't look at the end of the strands when I cut
it all I know is they were silver in color. The cap ends are crimp on brass
and hold up well  yet stainless would probably be better. The cap boots are
90 degrees yet the wire is straight with the same crimp on ends so in order
to fit them I needed to pull the boot back seat the wire into the cap then
slide the boot back . over time they take a set and stay in the center. I'd
prefer 90 degree cap ends and think Bosch made them straight so the same
wires will work on a beetle and T-3 straight boot or 90 degree. There is
not much info on type 3's tons on beetles. Makes it difficult to find info.
I should have paid more attention to the wires that came on my car then I
may have have screw on both ends , they looked original yet I feel the
newer silicone covering is better than the old black ones they were more of
a rubber. I never cared for carbon core wires on any car or truck I owned
always replaced them with stranded solid core.

 I have 4 good spare plug ends and some wire for spares and now a solid
core coil wire. I should have replaced the oil cooler seals when I had the
runners off because I wiped the top on the case down and see a it of wet
oil by the cooler seals . I just blew it off and didn't want to pull
everything off the left side mainly the injector harness just to get the
left tin off. It's not real bad and I see some oil from the rear main seal
s I lose about a 1/2 pint in 200 miles it doesn't leak unless it's running
and the engines cold less so when it's warmed up and the pressure drops.And
it leaks a bit at the pump cover gasket or studs because I don't have
sealing nuts on the pump. I didn't have internet in 97 when I rebuilt the
72 case and didn't know about the better sealing nuts all I had was the
Bentley and Haynes.

 I did find out what my EJ auto trans diff is , got this from a fellow on
Samba.

 " My documentation says for the type 3 autos:

EA: carbs, if necessary replace by EJ (see Worksheet H4.2/1-13)
EB: Injection, up to 8.71
EJ: Injection, 8.71-on, with additional connector for US

all three have 9x33 ring and pinions, so the usual 3.67:1 "








On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 5:34 AM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 9 Nov 2019 at 21:17, William Jahn wrote:
>
> > The two sets of Bosch wires I got seem to reach well enough though #1
> could
> > be a bit longer at least it wouldn't hurt if it had 2" more.
>
> Sounds like Bosch made some changes in the lengths over the years. I think
> I generally make the #1 wire maybe 6" longer than what comes in the boxes.
>
> >  I'm pretty sure I have 1 and 2 in the right path from the cap over the
> > breather tucked under the breather tab then down to the one double holder
> > that's near the edge of the oil bath hidden with the oil bath in place
> then
> > outside and over the fuel line and outside of  FI plug for #1.
>
> That sounds perfect.
>
> > I favored the cap booths so 1 & 2 face the right and it was just enough
> > where they don't touch anything probably why I need to move them out of
> > the breather to lift the cap away enough .
>
> One advantage of the OG dist cap ends is that they are easy to pull out of
> the dist cap and set aside while working inside the dist.
>
> > I don't have a great crimping tool for the cap or coil ends
>
> That's another big advantage of using the OG dist cap ends: They screw
> into
> the wire so there's no crimping required. Some of our cars also came with
> a
> special resistor end for the nose of the coil, which also screws into the
> wire.
> If you have that piece (also NLA new) then all 5 of your SP wires have
> screw
> connections at each end.
>
> Note, however, that the screw connectors are not suitable for carbon core
> wire. The best thing to do with that wire is to throw it away and replace
> it with
> copper or stainless core wire.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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