[T3] my long term issue have to unplug TS1 for a smooth idle.

[William Jahn]

Just a few updates. It seems to run better since I adjusted the D MPS 3/8
turn CCW. Also the old sump gaskets I use I get from Autozone they are
Mahle  yet a bit thicker than most and I usually wait a few days to check
the 6 nuts and forgot so each one had a drip of oil and I could tighten
them anothe 1/2 turn or so just snug as always I use just the head of a
1/4" ratchet so I can't tighten them too much and the sump plate is flat
where the 6 holes are. i used to get these local they were German gaskets
half as thick and they never needed to be checked after. I see J Bugs
offers them .

 I had used motor mounts I got in 2002 or 3 I looked at mine and they were
so compressed Tram on Samba looked at the photo's I was talking about the
vibration I have AT in drive foot on brake. He said they look so compressed
that it can pull on the air cooling bellows so I replaced the old original
ones with the better used ones and made sure the engine was centered .After
I put them in I left the mount bolts a bit loose and jacked up the rear
carrier at it's center. The right mount was forward and the left toward the
rear in the mounts slotted holes on the old ones. Once I jacked up the
center I was thinking about the trans mount both mounts became equal far
and aft and I checked if they were dead center with the engine lid opening
which is 30 inches to the case center then checked the CV joints tires on
the ground and off and both had the same movement. The replacement mounts
raised the engine at the very rear 7/8th inch .
 I drove it today and what a difference ,75 % of that vibration is gone and
even when driving it feels so much different.

 I was concerned about the oil filler rubber bellows so I slacked the clamp
and it moved a bit yet I can see I need a new one , this one had a small
split on the bottom most bellows there are 3 ,  so I cleaned and sealed it
with silicone.  Mine only has one clamp on that filler bellows always did
yet I've seen photo's of one on each end , not sure if they need two or
not. That slit was leaking in the original bellows was leaking a bit now I
know why the tube was oily.

 I'm  not sure what others use for sump gaskets the ones I get are thicker
and have a coating so they seem to compress and need to be checked after a
few heat cycles , the old ones were thinner as I said and didn't have this
issue.

 So far things are better over all. I can see the oil fill tube in the
engine is not parallel it's up 1/4" at the fill tube end I need to get a
new gasket to reposition it along with a new bellows and maybe another
clamp at the top if it is needed mine never had one and it's never been
changed.

 William

On Wed, Oct 2, 2019 at 7:09 AM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 1 Oct 2019 at 15:52, William Jahn wrote:
>
> >  Here's the link to the AAR not my photo's , scroll  down to Rays it
> shows
> > the pin and stop and why you can't get the spring on wrong.
> >
> > https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=610070&highlight=aar
>
> Okay, I see it. So it must be positioned right. Now it's time to do the
> functional tests that I recommended to see if your AAR is doing what you
> think it's doing.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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