[T3] '73 Idle Test

[William Jahn]

The main issue with the original pressure sensor was when I finally took
out the 4 screws because I was told they get oil in them over time. I was
clean yet the O'ring was flat so I bought one from you. Mainly what I
noticed was 2 of the screw threads in the housing were stripped and one
half of the housing didn't look the same , if had more corrosion and
pitting than the other half and this stood out . I thought at some point
someone attempted to make a good one out of two . It was the back half with
the single slotted adjustment screw with the epoxy still in place yet the
black cap was there and real easy to pull off by hand . others I have you
cannot just pull that black cap off then put it back on. I did work fine .
I think perhaps there might have been an issue with the diaphragm cell and
was changed . As for the stripped threads was probably ham handed over
tightening. I was able to fit 2 none metric thread screws to cut new
threads. When I was trying to pass smog here in 96 I picked out the epoxy
so I could turn the screw yet then it leaked vacuum around the screw so I
used silicone to seal it yet turning it in just a bit didn't lean it out
and made it run worse if I backed it out it seems to run better at idle yet
made the CO readings worse. All they did here at that time was a tail pipe
sniffer tested at idle and 2500 RPM , it passed the 2500 not the idle. I
had the one from the 72 and I didn't know part numbers so I zip tied it
next to the original so in 91 driving to Vegas I stopped and swapped the
line and plug over and it ran the same even though it turns out it was a
311 206 051D instead of a 311 906 051E . I didn't have internet in 96 or 97
when I rebuilt the engine or part numbers just the Bentley. Now I see
rebuilds using permatex to seal the cylinders to case instead of the paper
gasket and sealing all the case half nuts and bolts and washers with
permatex RTV and or the aviation Permatex . If I had known and done this I
might not have case leaks . Plus they use new nuts and bolts and washers.
Without knowing anyone who worked on air cooled other than one fellow who
used them in sand rails  and no internet I couldn't find new hardware I had
one place a small family owned shop where I got all my gaskets and hose and
stuff the fellow who did the sand rails told me where to go to get the
heads done which I did when I rebuilt the 72 engine . They put timeserts in
all the plug holes since two were lacking some threads and they had
balanced rod with new pin bushings.

 I did fix the crappy EMPI quiet pack right header to Heat Ex changer leak
with a bit of filing and Permatex Ulta Copper RTV . I got a muffler 3 bolt
flange to the header from ISP since it's just metal to metal and the
original gasket was card board and died long ago this one is like the stock
head to pipe gasket material so it may leak there even though I can't feel
it and replace the aluminum fan to heat  Ex changer hoses with ones I got
from Air Craft Spruce that will fit better so I can see if the rear header
to head exhaust gasket nuts are still tight. I did check the from ones and
they needed a small bit like 1/2 turn. I do have copper nuts for those just
never put them on. This is just to eliminate and exhaust leaks that may be
present since you cannot simply rock and pull to tell a  thing.

 It was indeed a sad day while trying to locate the rather loud internal
engine noise the original X engine developed I had to remove the stock
muffler thinking the cooling fan might have been it and the muffler to heat
ex changer pipes were paper thin and the few muffler shops here said they
couldn't fix in their works old crap. The stock system was so much better
and I could not find a good used or new replacement with no internet or
contacts. Plenty of beetle units though. Yet the exhaust is the least of my
concern it ran fine even with the louder EMPI . Plus back then that's about
all that was offered as a replacement the better headers didn't show up
till much later as far as I am aware.

 I just hope I can find and fix this running issue. First I am going to see
what TS1 is actually doing then go from there. At least I can monitor it. I
may pull the Pertronix since I got it in 98 and it works yet I was told by
Pertronix they can cause missing issues without failing and just put points
back in . I had good luck just using a feeler gauge set the gap @ .018"
still have an old Bosch condenser even though the new Bosch points I got
are IMHO garbage I found a better set without all the slop in the pivot.
Just ruling out things that might contribute to the  issue I have. I always
believed as a long time Ford tech rule out the simple things first note the
change and go from there.

 As a side note off topic. It's been near 100 degrees here and real humid
my garage now has a metal door and in there it's over 112 . Last I did any
work was Thursday last on the power relay . That night I wake up at
midnight to use the bathroom and turn off the window A/C didn't notice my
wife moved this wooden chair out further from the wall that has another 18"
metal fan on it and tripped sprained a finger a toe hit my head on two
wooden small dressers skinned my left knee raw so now everything hurts.
Didn't break anything and have not fallen since I was a kid. Certainly woke
and startled my wife.

On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 12:28 PM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 1 Sep 2019 at 10:37, William Jahn wrote:
>
> > at that point the pump relay had already timed out and was not part
> > of the reading .
>
> You've caught me again. You're right, the main power relay supplies
> voltage
> to the pump relay all the time, but the pump relay coil only draws current
> during that first second, unless the car is started.
>
> So this makes more sense: The non-engine-running brain still draws about
> 0.280 mA, all by itself. When running, I expect it to draw more, plus the
> injector pulses will add a lot to the load.
>
> > I do know when I got this car someone had accessed the ECU because the
> > rear trim panel hard board was cracked and also someone replaced the
> > MPS because it was screwed together and looked quite a bit older than
> > any other part near the engine yet it ran fine once I replaced the pile
> > of rust the original VR was
>
> The original pressure sensors were all screwed together. At some point in
> time, Bosch started supplying replacement pressure sensors that were
> riveted together. I'm pretty sure that time was well after all our cars
> were
> built.
>
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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