[T3] On my 73 square

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Fri Sep 13 10:08:18 PDT 2019

I just looked at the old one and if I pull back that black sleeve I see the
wire yet around the wire inside the crimp it looks like some type of
insulation. Can't tell what it is. It looks red in color.

On Fri, Sep 13, 2019 at 6:34 AM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 12 Sep 2019 at 16:47, William Jahn wrote:
> > I checked the spare from the connector to the crimp and did it several
> > times and got no ohm reading it was open as it should be.
> The crimp is part of the metal body, so from the connector to the crimp
> you
> should have read something like the 1.8 kOhms you got below. The crimp
> area is usually quite rusty, which might explain how you measured open
> (infinite resistance.)
> > I just now checked the one I had in the car and did it several times,
> > from the connector to the crimp I read 1.8k ohm , I also checked from
> > the connector the 1/4" female to the exposed wires that are not
> > touching the crimp and that was good no resistance. from the crimp to
> > the thread of the temp sensor I read 16 ohm.
> Again, from the crimp to the body should read zero Ohms, but this
> measurement really isn't important since the resistance from the connector
> to the threads is the only thing that counts.
> 1.8 k at room temp sounds just fine.
> >  I checked the air temp sensor cold 82*F 223 ohm let it run with the
> engine
> > cover in place and watched it after 20 minutes I read 108 degrees and the
> > lowest it got was 125 ohm . I drove once before and it was much hotter
> and
> > the low was 107 ohm the IAD temp measured on the area the sensor screws
> in
> > it  was close to 150 degrees.
> Sounds normal.
> >  Basically it seems the air temp sensor does not seem to drop low enough
> > fast enough
> If this is the problem, then why would disconnecting it (changing the
> resistance to infinite) seem to help.
> You've become fixated on the temp sensors, somewhat reasonably, because
> that's what you've found that makes a difference. But nothing you've
> measured there is actually out of order. OTOH, if one of those sensors has
> become intermittent, so that it's resistance jumps quickly back and forth,
> from
> normal to open, while hot, it's very likely that you wouldt never see that
> with
> your meter. For cases like this, substituting a different sensor is the
> only way
> to tell if the sensor is the problem.
> It's important to understand that the exact resistance is unimportant.
> There
> are very loose constraints on what is "correct" for them. As long as they
> are
> neither shorted (zero Ohms) nor open (infinite Ohms) they are fine.
> Have you checked the supply voltage from the relay while the problem is
> happening?
> Another thing you might check would be the tightness of each connection to
> the injectors. I've found that the male connector pins in later Bosch
> replacement injectors are very slightly thinner than the originals. This
> sometimes makes the connections poor, so that the injectors don't always
> open as far, or as long, as they should, resulting in missing or lean
> running.
> The Bosch tester will allow you to wiggle those wires while watching the
> resistance. If the needle jumps around when you wiggle the wires, you need
> to remove each female pin from the connector body and very gently squeeze
> it tighter. Check the fit on the injector before you put the pin back in
> the
> body.
> Fixing the tightness of all 8 injector pins will take a couple hours. It's
> a long,
> tedious, exhausting job, requiring plenty of patience.
> Consider contacting Phil to see if he's willing to let you visit him and
> have
> him test your system with the Bosch tester.
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
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