[T3] Oil cooler seals.

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Fri Jul 3 21:23:50 PDT 2020


Most of the videos I've watched no one have used the black seals, I think
they are rubber rather than silicone. Only two used a seal installer , one
hand seated his then had the steel disc and taped it home using a rubber
mallet. The other used the one with the bolt and lightly oiled the outer
edge of the seal to help it slide in without the risk of tearing the seal
to case then he oiled the lip , he used engine oil.

 When I worked for Ford as a tech , we had shop tools and special  seal
drivers so there was no issue. Most of the seals were not quite the same ,
they had a metal lip for a stop.

 I probably screwed mine up since it was the first time for this seal and
without the proper tool. Sure I had a well developed feel for it ,yet none
of the seals I ever drove in had an outer covering of rubber or silicone.
There may have been some on fords decades ago for the timing cover crank
seal. That was a very long time ago, in the 60's and 70's.

 My 73 is an auto trans , with the flex plate. Basically the same deal as
far as the seal and end play shim pack and gland nut. The only real
difference is the main bearing that takes the load doesn't have the added
pressure of a clutch wearing it down and of course has no O' ring to leak
and the cam plug has to have the cupped side out. I can get at the flex
plate and pry it and feel no change in end play and I can see through the
case cutout on the left it's the access for the three converter bolts. I'll
try to see if I can see anything out of the ordinary like a trail of oil.

 William

 I'm still in the same position as it stands.

On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:23 PM Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com> wrote:

> the black crank seals didnt last long, but any seal really needs to be in
> right and seated, and make sure the sealing surface on the flywheel is
> perfect.  Ive had a few crank seals leak that I thought were perfect.
>
> Keith
>
>
> Topnotch Restorations
> topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> http://www.topnotchresto.com
> 71 Squareback  "Hothe"
> 65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
> 93 RX7  "Redstur"
> 13 Subaru Outback "Blendin"
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of William Jahn
> Sent: Friday, July 03, 2020 10:30 PM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Oil cooler seals.
>
> Keith:
>  I realise you are trying to help, thank you.  Here in southern Calif
> friggin Hollywood no less. My 73 was sold here and never was in winter salt
> , There is no rust anywhere.
>  I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I don't even recall what brand of crank
> seal I used, all I recall is, I didn't have the proper seal installer. I
> had a difficult time getting it in.
>
>   I didn't have the internet as many back in 1997, that said I had no idea
> where I could get the proper tools. I did see the installer in the Bentley
> and made a hardwood block to tap the seal in place. I have no idea how long
> these seals last,even the German Elring.
>
>  The worst part is I can get a seal and a 36 mm socket and an inexpensive
> seal installer. It's the actual removal of the engine, the time it takes. I
> used to be able to walk to most stores for what my wife and I needed, now
> they have changed all of this.
>
>  If I had all of this then I would pull the engine and at the very least
> replace the crank seal and oil cooler seals. The push rod tubes are fine,
> they're cheap red seals. I bought all new German push rod tubes when I
> rebuilt this engine.  I can live with their leaks. I am not pulling heads .
> Some places make pretty good replacement tubes where you don't need to pull
> the heads, not cheap. I carry tools and 3 quarts of engine oil with me and
> check it often, best I can do right now.
>
> William
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 6:58 PM Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com> wrote:
>
> > if the pushrod tubes arent straight they can wear thru and leak or rust
> > thru
> > in the rust belt.
> >
> > Keith
> >
> >
> > Topnotch Restorations
> > topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> > http://www.topnotchresto.com
> > 71 Squareback  "Hothe"
> > 65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
> > 93 RX7  "Redstur"
> > 13 Subaru Outback "Blendin"
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> > type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> > On Behalf Of William Jahn
> > Sent: Friday, July 03, 2020 3:35 PM
> > To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> > Subject: Re: [T3] Oil cooler seals.
> >
> > I placed a round plastic container under the center of the case right up
> > the area where the rear main sits. This is where I saw the drips. It's
> been
> > 2 days since I drove it last and today I saw a bit of oil in the
> container.
> > It was probably oil that was still hanging up there. I wouldn't think
> using
> > Valvoline VR1 SAE 40 instead of the valvoline conventional would make any
> > difference as far as a leak would be concerned.
> >
> >  I also changed the cardboard under the engine and had an non absorbent
> > piece of cardboard on the left and it had about the same amount of oil so
> > there might be oil cooler seal drips. I don't see any around the heads or
> > cylinder fins of cylinders to the case. I do see a few pushrod tube seals
> > on the head side yet no drips could be oil blown back.
> >
> >  I'm going to check the torque of the lower case bolts and hope that's
> it.
> > I really can't recall what brand of crank seal I used. I did get a Elring
> > gasket set yet not the seal. I imagine the Elring seal would be the best
> > one since it's silicone and not rubber. I think it was orange. I know the
> > gasket set it used  had the red push rod seals probably felpro. The seal
> > was separate.
> >
> >  If I had to replace the seal I don't have a 36mm socket and only a 1/2
> > breaker bar and a 1/2" impacket wrench which was what I used to remove
> the
> > Gland nut.
> >
> >  So far I've been checking the oil level and never let it fall below the
> > middle between the two marks. I believe the top to lower is 1 qt.
> >
> >
> > On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 1:53 PM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
> >
> > > On 1 Jul 2020 at 12:39, William Jahn wrote:
> > >
> > > >  I was talking about replacing the rear main seal, you know that huge
> > > bolt
> > > > that holds the flex plate to the crank , the one that requires
> > something
> > > > like 275 ft lb's .
> > >
> > > I think it's 225 ft-lbs. Divide 225 by your weight and that will tell
> you
> > > how far
> > > out on a breaker bar to stand to get that torque. Don't jump on it just
> > > stand
> > > gently.
> > >
> > > The hard part is figureing out how to keep the flex plate from turning.
> I
> > > have
> > > holes drilled in a length of steel angle that I bolt to the plate or
> the
> > > flywheel.
> > >
> > > --
> > > *******************************
> > > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > > *******************************
> > >
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