[T3] 73 T-3 oil temp?

[William Jahn]

I checked the AAR and it was not fully closed so it seems to work. I still
need to check it after it's warm so I know it closes.

 I always remove the battery to check the level. It's too difficult to
check it in the car for me , The back seat stands up on a 73 T-3  . A few
cells were a little low , I usually make sure the level is just under the
ring or lip . It's an Interstate MT-42 so it has two caps. While I had it
out I charged it @ 2 amps for 2 hours then removed the caps and a few cells
were  a bit higher than the fill lip . I should have charged it first since
the plates were covered then added distilled water because the liquid
expands with heat. I feel it will be ok since they are only about 1/16"
high so there is quite a bit of space between the cap and level for
expansion . I find it odd since the battery was perfectly level when I
added water and all ended up at the same level until I changed it. The
battery case was not even close to warm. I imagine the electrolyte was.  I
knew liquid expands when warm , it just was not in my head today.   The
battery is 4 years old , Before this one I had one from auto zone of the
same size . I was told I didn't need to check the water , it lasted 7 years
then once I took it out when it died it was almost dry . Now I check .

William

On Sat, Sep 25, 2021 at 10:19 AM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 25 Sep 2021 at 9:21, William Jahn wrote:
>
> > I don't know if  anyone remembers. A while back I was having issues
> > starting the car in the morning. I use a primer switch and even when I
> > hold the primer switch when cranking it still won't fire right up , I
> need
> > to give it a bit of gas or it will quit. If it quits the second time it
> > fires right up.
>
> As you state below, you need to prime the fuel loop until you no longer
> hear
> air bubbling up inside the gas tank. That usually takes ~15 seconds or so.
> This clears air out of the fuel loop, but the short branches to each
> injector
> can still have air in them. It's common for some cylinders to start firing
> while
> others still have air in them; the engine will stall if you don't give the
> "good"
> cylinders some extra gas to keep them going until the rest of the
> cylinders
> start firing. I often have to do that; it's normal.
>
> Once the starter is engaged, the primer switch doesn't do anything extra.
> You can keep it on, but the brain is already keeping the pump running.
>
> > I repaired the electric AAR over a year ago because it was not closing
> and
> > kept the idle high. I suspect it is now stuck closed , the reason is
> because
> > when I repaired it I  would use the prime switch till I heard no more
> air in
> > the lines. It would fire right up and the idle would be a bit higher ,
> in 5
> > minutes  it would drop back to 1000 RPM in neutral. Now when it starts
> it's
> > always at 1000 RPM.
>
> I would expect any AAR in your area to be mostly closed at this time of
> year.
> It should be fully open if you get down below 32 F, but your car probably
> never sees those temps. With the ambient temp this time of year in your
> area, it should be mostly closed.
>
> > From what I recall the AAR acts as a sort of choke by allowing in more
> air
> > the MPS senses a vacuum leak and enriches the mix.
>
> No! It's not a choke; it's an automatic throttle. It lets more air in and
> the MAP
> sensor adjusts the F/A mixture accordingly.
>
> > Taking the eclectic AAR apart is not something that's in any way fun. I
> > always read about the people with FI who have the standard trans and the
> oil
> > heated AAR having to constantly clean and adjust them.
>
> I'm sure lots of people do this, but it's seldom necessary. (Yeah, I used
> to do
> it, too, but that was before I understood what was going on.) FYI, one of
> the
> services I do is rebuild the MT AARs. They can stick and I can fix that.
> As
> you have noted, the AT AAR is difficult/impossible to disassemble and put
> back together nicely. I have tried soaking them in various solvents to
> free
> them up, which sometimes helps, but I don't have any better solution for
> them.
>
> > my main concern is running down the battery. I don't drive far enough
> most of
> > the time for the charging system to charge it back fully. Most of the
> time
> > when I check the battery it's @ 12.5 volts . Drove it a mile yesterday,
> > checked the voltage and it was 12.97 after shut down. Once that surface
> > charge drops off I bet it's back to 12.5 or  close to it.
>
> That sounds perfectly fine. Nothing to worry about here.
>
> > I need to pull the battery just to check if the level in each cell is
> fine.
>
> Checking the fluid level once a year is a good thing to do, assuming you
> have a battery that lets you look in. You can do it with the battery in
> the car.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
> _______________________________________________
> VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
> To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:
> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> If you need more help, contact: gregm at vwtype3.org
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20210925/a3680ad4/attachment.html>