[T3] 73 T-3 oil temp?

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Sat Sep 25 23:11:17 PDT 2021

 I still have to wonder what's up with the AAR. Thing is it was this hot
after I repaired it and it started with just using the primer switch. I
didn't have the prime with the key on. I just  primed  till I heard no more
air in the lines and it fired right up. I have to be missing something. All
that comes to mind is I replaced the fuel pump a few years back with a new
design, a 2 port pump many use and the filter . It has a check valve built
in.  It does not have many miles on either and there are no signs of fuel
starvation while driving at all. Once it starts and I make a few stops it
starts right up.

 I also wanted to thank everyone for their answers on the oil  temps I
experienced and for everything else. I really do appreciate it.


On Sat, Sep 25, 2021 at 5:17 PM William Jahn <willjahn975 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I checked the AAR and it was not fully closed so it seems to work. I still
> need to check it after it's warm so I know it closes.
>  I always remove the battery to check the level. It's too difficult to
> check it in the car for me , The back seat stands up on a 73 T-3  . A few
> cells were a little low , I usually make sure the level is just under the
> ring or lip . It's an Interstate MT-42 so it has two caps. While I had it
> out I charged it @ 2 amps for 2 hours then removed the caps and a few cells
> were  a bit higher than the fill lip . I should have charged it first since
> the plates were covered then added distilled water because the liquid
> expands with heat. I feel it will be ok since they are only about 1/16"
> high so there is quite a bit of space between the cap and level for
> expansion . I find it odd since the battery was perfectly level when I
> added water and all ended up at the same level until I changed it. The
> battery case was not even close to warm. I imagine the electrolyte was.  I
> knew liquid expands when warm , it just was not in my head today.   The
> battery is 4 years old , Before this one I had one from auto zone of the
> same size . I was told I didn't need to check the water , it lasted 7 years
> then once I took it out when it died it was almost dry . Now I check .
> William
> On Sat, Sep 25, 2021 at 10:19 AM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>> On 25 Sep 2021 at 9:21, William Jahn wrote:
>> > I don't know if  anyone remembers. A while back I was having issues
>> > starting the car in the morning. I use a primer switch and even when I
>> > hold the primer switch when cranking it still won't fire right up , I
>> need
>> > to give it a bit of gas or it will quit. If it quits the second time it
>> > fires right up.
>> As you state below, you need to prime the fuel loop until you no longer
>> hear
>> air bubbling up inside the gas tank. That usually takes ~15 seconds or
>> so.
>> This clears air out of the fuel loop, but the short branches to each
>> injector
>> can still have air in them. It's common for some cylinders to start
>> firing while
>> others still have air in them; the engine will stall if you don't give
>> the "good"
>> cylinders some extra gas to keep them going until the rest of the
>> cylinders
>> start firing. I often have to do that; it's normal.
>> Once the starter is engaged, the primer switch doesn't do anything extra.
>> You can keep it on, but the brain is already keeping the pump running.
>> > I repaired the electric AAR over a year ago because it was not closing
>> and
>> > kept the idle high. I suspect it is now stuck closed , the reason is
>> because
>> > when I repaired it I  would use the prime switch till I heard no more
>> air in
>> > the lines. It would fire right up and the idle would be a bit higher ,
>> in 5
>> > minutes  it would drop back to 1000 RPM in neutral. Now when it starts
>> it's
>> > always at 1000 RPM.
>> I would expect any AAR in your area to be mostly closed at this time of
>> year.
>> It should be fully open if you get down below 32 F, but your car probably
>> never sees those temps. With the ambient temp this time of year in your
>> area, it should be mostly closed.
>> > From what I recall the AAR acts as a sort of choke by allowing in more
>> air
>> > the MPS senses a vacuum leak and enriches the mix.
>> No! It's not a choke; it's an automatic throttle. It lets more air in and
>> the MAP
>> sensor adjusts the F/A mixture accordingly.
>> > Taking the eclectic AAR apart is not something that's in any way fun. I
>> > always read about the people with FI who have the standard trans and
>> the oil
>> > heated AAR having to constantly clean and adjust them.
>> I'm sure lots of people do this, but it's seldom necessary. (Yeah, I used
>> to do
>> it, too, but that was before I understood what was going on.) FYI, one of
>> the
>> services I do is rebuild the MT AARs. They can stick and I can fix that.
>> As
>> you have noted, the AT AAR is difficult/impossible to disassemble and put
>> back together nicely. I have tried soaking them in various solvents to
>> free
>> them up, which sometimes helps, but I don't have any better solution for
>> them.
>> > my main concern is running down the battery. I don't drive far enough
>> most of
>> > the time for the charging system to charge it back fully. Most of the
>> time
>> > when I check the battery it's @ 12.5 volts . Drove it a mile yesterday,
>> > checked the voltage and it was 12.97 after shut down. Once that surface
>> > charge drops off I bet it's back to 12.5 or  close to it.
>> That sounds perfectly fine. Nothing to worry about here.
>> > I need to pull the battery just to check if the level in each cell is
>> fine.
>> Checking the fluid level once a year is a good thing to do, assuming you
>> have a battery that lets you look in. You can do it with the battery in
>> the car.
>> --
>> *******************************
>> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
>> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>> *******************************
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