[T3] 73 auto trans type 3 ARR ?

[William Jahn]

Checking with a timing light shows me at idle when this happens the timing
is advanced then drops back to the 5 degree BTDC then once I increase the
RPM it will advance to much at idle or hang . It's not consistent, it's not
over advancing but it's not returning to 5 degrees DBTC so it's causing the
idle to be high most of the time. I do know the timing is set at 3 degrees
BTDC because when it does not hang I see this reading when it works and
it's consistent . That is where I set it because 5 BTDC causes a slight
ping with the fuel we have here. Doing this did not cause the loss of any
power , in fact it pulled better.

On Sun, Jun 11, 2023 at 4:50 PM William Jahn <willjahn975 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I looked at all the vacuum lines and could not find one loose or bad. I do
> know if the trans modulator leaks you lose trans fluid and if the line is
> off the trans will slam into gear. I know this because once adjusting it on
> the road I forgot to connect it, The plastic Tee is fine and everything
> else. No leaking gaskets besides I replaced them all. I did order the two
> caps for the breather box since mine are old and hard .
>
>  I checked the dist and the rotor snaps back as it should. But that does
> not mean while it's running a weight is not sticking. I have the 73 AG for
> a 73 manual trans I rebuilt so I will put that in and see if the AH has
> some issue. Of all the work I did the dist has been in there the longest
> and besides it could use the trigger point cam lubed .
>
>  That seems to be the most likely problem as far as I can tell.
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 10, 2023 at 11:23 PM <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>
>> On 10 Jun 2023 at 16:46, William Jahn wrote:
>>
>> >  I got new Intake gaskets from you Jim. I did this work at the end of
>> 2019
>> > . I cleaned everything and even sealed the IAD back cover gasket using
>> > silicone on both sides. Let it set up the 4 bolts loose then when dry
>> > tightened them. I replaced every vacuum hose  and the injector seals and
>> > all the fuel line . I made certain the IAD lined up perfectly with the
>> > runners , and had to bend 2 slightly.
>>
>> Okay, sounds like you've got all those things covered.
>>
>> Have you checked the tightness of the two screws for the cold start valve?
>>
>> How about the hoses for the AT vacuum modulator?
>>
>> Does your engine still have the EGR valve and plumbing? If so, have you
>> blocked it off?
>> Checked the short hose that connects the 2-piece pipe to the IAD? (I made
>> a blockoff plate
>> for the flange to the EGR valve inlet and sealed it with one of those
>> tiny VW metal manifold
>> warmup gaskets. The heat exchanger also got a blockoff plate and gasket.
>> My EGR filter fell
>> apart and has been completely removed.)
>>
>> You could try flushing out the idle air channel with something like
>> WD-40. And check the
>> '72-3 crankcase breather that vents into the IAD cover; could there be
>> something intermittent
>> there? (Flush the breather port in the cover and the PCV valve in the
>> breather box with
>> WD-40 to make sure they're not clogged with gooey oil.)
>>
>> Keith's suggestion of looking for a leak with an unlit propane torch is
>> always something to
>> consider, but I've always found this to be hard to interpret. Maybe I've
>> just never come across
>> a large enough leak.
>>
>> If all those seem okay, yeah, maybe there's a problem with the
>> distributor. You should be
>> able to see if the timing always comes back to the same point at idle
>> with a timing light, but,
>> again, that's hard to interpret, since the timing SHOULD change between
>> 800 and 1400
>> RPM. Maybe you can just watch how it moves as you move the throttle and
>> RPMs up and
>> down.
>>
>> --
>> *******************************
>> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
>> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>> *******************************
>>
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>
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