[T3] CV

[Bryon Garvin]

I've not ever laid eyes on a CV joint that wasn't installed so I can't
picture exactly what it's going to be like.  Reading the Bentley is somewhat
helpful, but I wanted to clarify, I will not need to press the drive shaft
out in order to do the inspection and lubrication....correct?  This will all
happen with the drive shaft still inserted in the CV joint?

Also, I see that the Bentley makes mention of leaving the lock washers off
when re-installing the screws for the caps.  They say to check for
protruding screws after torquing them and if they stick out, obtain some of
the new shorter screws.  What are the chances I will have problems with the
screws that I have?  I'd like to have all the parts in place before I start
the job.  If people have never experienced an issue in this regard, I'd feel
more confident about reusing the parts I have.

Thanks!

 - Bryon, '71 Fastback



On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 8:31 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 31 Jul 2011 at 22:56, Bryon Garvin wrote:
>
> > So, anyway, that's the reason I was under the car today.  But in the
> process
> > of bleeding the brakes, I discovered what I am pretty sure is a tear in
> my
> > RR CV boot - the one closest to the wheel.  I have been under the car
> alot
> > this year and this is the first time I've seen it.  Grease has splattered
> > all over the rear axle.  So I've lost some lubrication for sure.
> >
> > My question is, at this point, what do I do?  Do I need a new CV joint?
>  Can
> > I just replace the boot?  When do you know if you've lost too much
> > lubrication and must replace the part?
>
> You should remove the half shaft with both CV joints, clean out the
> joint, replace the torn boot, replace the grease, and put it back
> together. It's a dirty but instructive job, and you should inspect
> the CV joint while it's apart, but it probably doesn't need to be
> replaced.
>
> The main thing to remember is that you'll need a special driver for
> the CV joint bolts, an 8 mm metric spline driver, which is different
> from a Torx. When you use it, clean out the recess in the bolt head
> before you start, and tap the driver in all the way before you try to
> turn the bolt. Those holes fill up with dirt and will strip if you
> don't get the driver in all the way.
>
> I use a small screwdriver to clean out the holes, then tap the driver
> in, then use the screwdriver again to clean out more dirt which the
> driver loosened up. There are probably faster ways if you have
> compressed air, but you'll still have to use some sort of small tool
> to push in there to break up the accumulated dirt/grime.
>
> When you inspect the CV joint, just look for signs where the balls
> have worn flakes of metal off the surface of the inner or outer
> races. Smooth shiny places where wear has accumulated are pretty
> normal, but flaked chunks coming off are probably a sign that
> replacement is prudent.
>
> If you need a replacement, your CV joints are the same ones as used
> on Beetles. They should be available almost anywhere, as should the
> kits which contain a boot and enough grease for 1 joint.
>
> If you need more grease, it may be hard to buy small quantities. You
> need a moly grease, which will be green/black. Maybe your FLAPS will
> have something.
>
> BTW, when I reassemble these, I do NOT use clamps on the small end of
> the CV joint. I know the manuals say you should install them on
> everything up to '72, but I find that it works well to leave them off
> all the years.
>
> If you want, I have good used CV joints and grease here.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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