[T3] CV

[Mike Fisher]

I'm fairly certain your CV joint is fine.  Just pack it full of grease
and put it back in with a new boot.  The stub axle will come out if
you flex it and pop out the big round ball bearings, but I wouldn't
think it's necessary in your case.  I've always reused the washers on
my CV bolts.

On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 9:41 AM, Bryon Garvin <spinningrooves at gmail.com> wrote:
> I've not ever laid eyes on a CV joint that wasn't installed so I can't
> picture exactly what it's going to be like.  Reading the Bentley is somewhat
> helpful, but I wanted to clarify, I will not need to press the drive shaft
> out in order to do the inspection and lubrication....correct?  This will all
> happen with the drive shaft still inserted in the CV joint?
>
> Also, I see that the Bentley makes mention of leaving the lock washers off
> when re-installing the screws for the caps.  They say to check for
> protruding screws after torquing them and if they stick out, obtain some of
> the new shorter screws.  What are the chances I will have problems with the
> screws that I have?  I'd like to have all the parts in place before I start
> the job.  If people have never experienced an issue in this regard, I'd feel
> more confident about reusing the parts I have.
>
> Thanks!
>
>  - Bryon, '71 Fastback
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 8:31 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>
>> On 31 Jul 2011 at 22:56, Bryon Garvin wrote:
>>
>> > So, anyway, that's the reason I was under the car today.  But in the
>> process
>> > of bleeding the brakes, I discovered what I am pretty sure is a tear in
>> my
>> > RR CV boot - the one closest to the wheel.  I have been under the car
>> alot
>> > this year and this is the first time I've seen it.  Grease has splattered
>> > all over the rear axle.  So I've lost some lubrication for sure.
>> >
>> > My question is, at this point, what do I do?  Do I need a new CV joint?
>>  Can
>> > I just replace the boot?  When do you know if you've lost too much
>> > lubrication and must replace the part?
>>
>> You should remove the half shaft with both CV joints, clean out the
>> joint, replace the torn boot, replace the grease, and put it back
>> together. It's a dirty but instructive job, and you should inspect
>> the CV joint while it's apart, but it probably doesn't need to be
>> replaced.
>>
>> The main thing to remember is that you'll need a special driver for
>> the CV joint bolts, an 8 mm metric spline driver, which is different
>> from a Torx. When you use it, clean out the recess in the bolt head
>> before you start, and tap the driver in all the way before you try to
>> turn the bolt. Those holes fill up with dirt and will strip if you
>> don't get the driver in all the way.
>>
>> I use a small screwdriver to clean out the holes, then tap the driver
>> in, then use the screwdriver again to clean out more dirt which the
>> driver loosened up. There are probably faster ways if you have
>> compressed air, but you'll still have to use some sort of small tool
>> to push in there to break up the accumulated dirt/grime.
>>
>> When you inspect the CV joint, just look for signs where the balls
>> have worn flakes of metal off the surface of the inner or outer
>> races. Smooth shiny places where wear has accumulated are pretty
>> normal, but flaked chunks coming off are probably a sign that
>> replacement is prudent.
>>
>> If you need a replacement, your CV joints are the same ones as used
>> on Beetles. They should be available almost anywhere, as should the
>> kits which contain a boot and enough grease for 1 joint.
>>
>> If you need more grease, it may be hard to buy small quantities. You
>> need a moly grease, which will be green/black. Maybe your FLAPS will
>> have something.
>>
>> BTW, when I reassemble these, I do NOT use clamps on the small end of
>> the CV joint. I know the manuals say you should install them on
>> everything up to '72, but I find that it works well to leave them off
>> all the years.
>>
>> If you want, I have good used CV joints and grease here.
>>
>> --
>> *******************************
>> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
>> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>> *******************************
>>
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