[T3] CV

Mon Aug 1 12:10:47 PDT 2011

This might seem like a no-brainer for most of you, but I wanted to clarify
since I haven't done this before. Sorry for asking what are probably very
basic questions but I need the help.

The Bentley says pack 2/3 of the grease between the boot, cap and joint.
 The other 1/3 goes in the open front of the joint.

   - Am I going to disassemble the joint to inspect it like on page 13 of
   the Bentley, fig 3-21 ?
   - Am I going to clean it really well with solvent or just get the old
   grease out as best as I can and put new grease in?
   - How do you put the grease in the joint?  I have only packed a front
   wheel bearing before.  Is it similar?
   - When they say 2/3 goes between the boot/cap/joint, does that mean just
   loading it up right inside the cap where the boot meets?

I'm wondering if I should have just bought a 2nd boot and done the other one
while the axle is out.  I only got one.  Hmmm....

Thanks for the help....

 - Bryon, '71 Fastback

On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 9:51 AM, Mike Fisher <fisherfarms at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm fairly certain your CV joint is fine.  Just pack it full of grease
> and put it back in with a new boot.  The stub axle will come out if
> you flex it and pop out the big round ball bearings, but I wouldn't
> think it's necessary in your case.  I've always reused the washers on
> my CV bolts.
>
> On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 9:41 AM, Bryon Garvin <spinningrooves at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > I've not ever laid eyes on a CV joint that wasn't installed so I can't
> > picture exactly what it's going to be like.  Reading the Bentley is
> somewhat
> > helpful, but I wanted to clarify, I will not need to press the drive
> shaft
> > out in order to do the inspection and lubrication....correct?  This will
> all
> > happen with the drive shaft still inserted in the CV joint?
> >
> > Also, I see that the Bentley makes mention of leaving the lock washers
> off
> > when re-installing the screws for the caps.  They say to check for
> > protruding screws after torquing them and if they stick out, obtain some
> of
> > the new shorter screws.  What are the chances I will have problems with
> the
> > screws that I have?  I'd like to have all the parts in place before I
> start
> > the job.  If people have never experienced an issue in this regard, I'd
> feel
> > more confident about reusing the parts I have.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> >  - Bryon, '71 Fastback
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 8:31 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
> >
> >> On 31 Jul 2011 at 22:56, Bryon Garvin wrote:
> >>
> >> > So, anyway, that's the reason I was under the car today.  But in the
> >> process
> >> > of bleeding the brakes, I discovered what I am pretty sure is a tear
> in
> >> my
> >> > RR CV boot - the one closest to the wheel.  I have been under the car
> >> alot
> >> > this year and this is the first time I've seen it.  Grease has
> splattered
> >> > all over the rear axle.  So I've lost some lubrication for sure.
> >> >
> >> > My question is, at this point, what do I do?  Do I need a new CV
> joint?
> >>  Can
> >> > I just replace the boot?  When do you know if you've lost too much
> >> > lubrication and must replace the part?
> >>
> >> You should remove the half shaft with both CV joints, clean out the
> >> joint, replace the torn boot, replace the grease, and put it back
> >> together. It's a dirty but instructive job, and you should inspect
> >> the CV joint while it's apart, but it probably doesn't need to be
> >> replaced.
> >>
> >> The main thing to remember is that you'll need a special driver for
> >> the CV joint bolts, an 8 mm metric spline driver, which is different
> >> from a Torx. When you use it, clean out the recess in the bolt head
> >> before you start, and tap the driver in all the way before you try to
> >> turn the bolt. Those holes fill up with dirt and will strip if you
> >> don't get the driver in all the way.
> >>
> >> I use a small screwdriver to clean out the holes, then tap the driver
> >> in, then use the screwdriver again to clean out more dirt which the
> >> driver loosened up. There are probably faster ways if you have
> >> compressed air, but you'll still have to use some sort of small tool
> >> to push in there to break up the accumulated dirt/grime.
> >>
> >> When you inspect the CV joint, just look for signs where the balls
> >> have worn flakes of metal off the surface of the inner or outer
> >> races. Smooth shiny places where wear has accumulated are pretty
> >> normal, but flaked chunks coming off are probably a sign that
> >> replacement is prudent.
> >>
> >> If you need a replacement, your CV joints are the same ones as used
> >> on Beetles. They should be available almost anywhere, as should the
> >> kits which contain a boot and enough grease for 1 joint.
> >>
> >> If you need more grease, it may be hard to buy small quantities. You
> >> need a moly grease, which will be green/black. Maybe your FLAPS will
> >> have something.
> >>
> >> BTW, when I reassemble these, I do NOT use clamps on the small end of
> >> the CV joint. I know the manuals say you should install them on
> >> everything up to '72, but I find that it works well to leave them off
> >> all the years.
> >>
> >> If you want, I have good used CV joints and grease here.
> >>
> >> --
> >> *******************************
> >> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> >> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> >> *******************************
> >>
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