[T3] CV

Dave Hall dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
Mon Aug 1 17:48:03 PDT 2011 

The outer boot is usually the one that suffers more.  The inner one works in
better conditions - not as hot as near the brakes.  I don't think I've
replaced a CV boot on my aircooled cars, though I've done them on
watercooled FWD VWs quite a few times, but they get a severe work-out on the
steering end of things.

The grease comes in a tube - just squeeze it in.  There may be a nozzle on
the pack of grease, or you might just cut the corner off it.  That makes it
easy to get the grease between the balls.  The 2/3 is spare to continue the
lubricating as time goes on.

Do a reasonable job as your boot had split and might just have got some
contamination inside, though I doubt it.  

Dave.
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Bryon
Garvin
Sent: 01 August 2011 20:11
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] CV

This might seem like a no-brainer for most of you, but I wanted to clarify
since I haven't done this before. Sorry for asking what are probably very
basic questions but I need the help.

The Bentley says pack 2/3 of the grease between the boot, cap and joint.
 The other 1/3 goes in the open front of the joint.


   - Am I going to disassemble the joint to inspect it like on page 13 of
   the Bentley, fig 3-21 ?
   - Am I going to clean it really well with solvent or just get the old
   grease out as best as I can and put new grease in?
   - How do you put the grease in the joint?  I have only packed a front
   wheel bearing before.  Is it similar?
   - When they say 2/3 goes between the boot/cap/joint, does that mean just
   loading it up right inside the cap where the boot meets?

I'm wondering if I should have just bought a 2nd boot and done the other one
while the axle is out.  I only got one.  Hmmm....

Thanks for the help....

 - Bryon, '71 Fastback

On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 9:51 AM, Mike Fisher <fisherfarms at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm fairly certain your CV joint is fine.  Just pack it full of grease 
> and put it back in with a new boot.  The stub axle will come out if 
> you flex it and pop out the big round ball bearings, but I wouldn't 
> think it's necessary in your case.  I've always reused the washers on 
> my CV bolts.
>
> On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 9:41 AM, Bryon Garvin 
> <spinningrooves at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > I've not ever laid eyes on a CV joint that wasn't installed so I 
> > can't picture exactly what it's going to be like.  Reading the 
> > Bentley is
> somewhat
> > helpful, but I wanted to clarify, I will not need to press the drive
> shaft
> > out in order to do the inspection and lubrication....correct?  This 
> > will
> all
> > happen with the drive shaft still inserted in the CV joint?
> >
> > Also, I see that the Bentley makes mention of leaving the lock 
> > washers
> off
> > when re-installing the screws for the caps.  They say to check for 
> > protruding screws after torquing them and if they stick out, obtain 
> > some
> of
> > the new shorter screws.  What are the chances I will have problems 
> > with
> the
> > screws that I have?  I'd like to have all the parts in place before 
> > I
> start
> > the job.  If people have never experienced an issue in this regard, 
> > I'd
> feel
> > more confident about reusing the parts I have.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> >  - Bryon, '71 Fastback
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 8:31 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
> >
> >> On 31 Jul 2011 at 22:56, Bryon Garvin wrote:
> >>
> >> > So, anyway, that's the reason I was under the car today.  But in 
> >> > the
> >> process
> >> > of bleeding the brakes, I discovered what I am pretty sure is a 
> >> > tear
> in
> >> my
> >> > RR CV boot - the one closest to the wheel.  I have been under the 
> >> > car
> >> alot
> >> > this year and this is the first time I've seen it.  Grease has
> splattered
> >> > all over the rear axle.  So I've lost some lubrication for sure.
> >> >
> >> > My question is, at this point, what do I do?  Do I need a new CV
> joint?
> >>  Can
> >> > I just replace the boot?  When do you know if you've lost too 
> >> > much lubrication and must replace the part?
> >>
> >> You should remove the half shaft with both CV joints, clean out the 
> >> joint, replace the torn boot, replace the grease, and put it back 
> >> together. It's a dirty but instructive job, and you should inspect 
> >> the CV joint while it's apart, but it probably doesn't need to be 
> >> replaced.
> >>
> >> The main thing to remember is that you'll need a special driver for 
> >> the CV joint bolts, an 8 mm metric spline driver, which is 
> >> different from a Torx. When you use it, clean out the recess in the 
> >> bolt head before you start, and tap the driver in all the way 
> >> before you try to turn the bolt. Those holes fill up with dirt and 
> >> will strip if you don't get the driver in all the way.
> >>
> >> I use a small screwdriver to clean out the holes, then tap the 
> >> driver in, then use the screwdriver again to clean out more dirt 
> >> which the driver loosened up. There are probably faster ways if you 
> >> have compressed air, but you'll still have to use some sort of 
> >> small tool to push in there to break up the accumulated dirt/grime.
> >>
> >> When you inspect the CV joint, just look for signs where the balls 
> >> have worn flakes of metal off the surface of the inner or outer 
> >> races. Smooth shiny places where wear has accumulated are pretty 
> >> normal, but flaked chunks coming off are probably a sign that 
> >> replacement is prudent.
> >>
> >> If you need a replacement, your CV joints are the same ones as used 
> >> on Beetles. They should be available almost anywhere, as should the 
> >> kits which contain a boot and enough grease for 1 joint.
> >>
> >> If you need more grease, it may be hard to buy small quantities. 
> >> You need a moly grease, which will be green/black. Maybe your FLAPS 
> >> will have something.
> >>
> >> BTW, when I reassemble these, I do NOT use clamps on the small end 
> >> of the CV joint. I know the manuals say you should install them on 
> >> everything up to '72, but I find that it works well to leave them 
> >> off all the years.
> >>
> >> If you want, I have good used CV joints and grease here.
> >>
> >> --
> >> *******************************
> >> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> >> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> >> *******************************
> >>
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