[T3] Speedo Assembly '67ish

[Jim Adney]

On 19 Aug 2011 at 17:33, Know One wrote:

> The needle of the speedo I purchased a few weeks ago at a VW swap sat
> at 30 MPH when not connected to the cable, which I knew was the
> condition when I bought it. It is a white needle speedo correct for a
> '67. 

If it's a grey faced speedo w/trip odo, then it's a '71, which will 
have shorter retaining springs. The thing to do to make this work 
best for you is to install the '71 guts in an earlier metal housing.

> The face of the speedo consists of a plastic portion with the numbers
> and a metal piece which is screwed two places to the working guts. The
> plastic covers the metal. I don't see an obvious way to separate the
> plastic from the metal in order to expose the screws. 

> A) How are they held together? 

I think you'd have have to remove the needle and then the center 
trim. Then you could get to the screws. You might be able to grab the 
rear ends of the screws and turn them in a bit more.

> B) Does it matter if the metal/plastic is a bit loosely attached to
> the guts? 

It doesn't really cause any problems.

> It appears that the needle assembly is a press fit onto the shaft of
> the guts. 

Yes

> C) Is there a slot or registration for this assembly? 

For the needle on the shaft? No.

> I would assume that there should be some pre-loading to bring the
> needle to the lowest indication (10MPG). 

Yes

> D) How is the preset established? 

> My guess is to more or less start the press fit at where 0 MPH would
> be, then bring the needle over the stop and so a final press. 

Yes, I think there's a small mark CCW from the stop where the needle 
should be set. Then you carefully lift the needle over the stop. 
Careful here, the needles can be VERY fragile.

> Overall, this speedo looks really clean and in excellent shape,
> including the trip-odo. I know there are problems with the trip-odo 

> E) What are the indications of a problem so I can check this one? 

Make something that you can turn the input shaft with and spin it by 
hand. The odo (both of them) should advance. If they don't, you 
really should just send it to me for repair.

> On another piece of dash - The instrument cluster I got for $5 only
> needed the metal center beauty cover over the cluster to be glued in
> place. Removing the bezel was easy enough. Amazing to see a cluster
> that isn't all tarnished and corroded like mine is! It's really clean.
> All ready for installation. It is marked 12v, just checked it. 

The only difference may be the bulbs, but early versions may lack one 
of the connections.

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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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