[T3] News on The Baroness

Mike Fisher fisherfarms at gmail.com
Sat Sep 20 14:25:25 PDT 2014


$500-$1000 with a bad engine.  Better to buy a rebuilt longblock installed
for $2000 and drive it.

On Sat, Sep 20, 2014 at 2:17 PM, Fiesta Cranberry <fiestacranberry at gmail.com
> wrote:

> Just heard from the guy looking at The B.  Just like you guys said, he
> thinks it's the camshaft and/or lifters.  Here's what he said:
>
>
> I have some news… unfortunately it isn’t very good.   I checked the valve
> heights and performed a leak down test.  They looked pretty good.  Fairly
> consistent and were sealing very well.  There is a bit of height difference
> between the valve stems but that is pretty normal.  Some valve seats need
> to be cut more than others which makes the valves sit a bit deeper or
> shallower in the head.  What is apparent is that the lifters for the #1 and
> #3 exhaust valves sit closer to the center line of the case than the other
> lifters.  This means there is definitely an issue with the cam or lifters
> which requires a full tear down of the engine.  I am not exactly sure why
> this is, but I have seen new and reground cams with poor grind quality that
> results in damage to either the lobe or the lifter or both.
>
> You do have a couple options regarding a possible rebuild though.  It will
> be less expensive to buy a long block from a reasonable builder and install
> it rather than have me tear down your block and re-build.  Of course an
> inexpensive engine uses cheap parts that may lack in quality, but they do
> build a lot of them and they seem to run just fine.  I am friends with the
> machinist at Tassi Inc. and he would be sure to pay close attention to
> anything he built for me.  When I build an engine, even if re-using your
> pistons, cylinders and heads, I check everything..  Many hours of just
> measuring bore diameters, taper and round, checking deck heights, lapping
> cylinders, back cutting valves, crank and rod journal condition and size
> both in the case and on the forgings.  Regardless of which re-build option
> you choose, there will be some additional costs either way.  The rocker
> assemblies and push rods will need to be replaced with stock units, there
> may be some hoses, bolts, caps or seals that also need to be replaced.
>
> Purchased Long Block  around $1000.00
> Additional material, gaskets, oil, tune up budget $200.00
> R&R labor allow 12-16 hours if things go smoothly $800.00
>
> If I tear down your engine and rebuild you are looking at around 32-40
> hours of time $2000.00 plus materials
> Materials TBD, assume new bearings, crank, cam, rods.  New cam and lifters,
> reuse rods, crank and case (if they measure out), gasket kit.  Hone and
> re-ring cylinders, re-cut valves and seats..
>
> ​I think his prices are very reasonable.  I just need to think about all
> this.  Even if I go with a new longblock, it's still around $2000.  Being
> disabled, that's a lot of money for me.  OTOH, I've had The B. for 20
> years; the only car I've ever owned.  And probably the only one I ever will
> own, given my finances.  My only other option is to sell her, as is.  I
> still have the complete fuel injection system, along with a lot of other
> extra parts, even a spare door!  What do you think I could get for her in a
> non-working condition?
>
> What do you guys think?  I could really use some advice, taking in to
> consideration my economic condition.
>
> Lori & The Baroness, 71' SB, AT
>
>>
>
> --
> "I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm happy to say I've finally
> won out over it."
>                                                   ---Elwood P. Dowd
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-- 
Eugene, Oregon

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