[T3] Baroness
Chris
cscsheridan at gmail.com
Mon Sep 22 18:07:42 PDT 2014
The guy said the same thing I already told you two months ago
> On Sep 20, 2014, at 3:08 PM, type3-vwtype3.org-request at lists.vwtype3.org wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. News on The Baroness (Fiesta Cranberry)
> 2. Re: News on The Baroness (Mike Fisher)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 14:17:56 -0700
> From: Fiesta Cranberry <fiestacranberry at gmail.com>
> To: VW list <type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org>
> Subject: [T3] News on The Baroness
> Message-ID:
> <CAD=5u+Kv5hsWPwG4boS9dOZbsR6FO9J3Z5QrN83N_PWpaWbf6w at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Just heard from the guy looking at The B. Just like you guys said, he
> thinks it's the camshaft and/or lifters. Here's what he said:
>
>
> I have some news? unfortunately it isn?t very good. I checked the valve
> heights and performed a leak down test. They looked pretty good. Fairly
> consistent and were sealing very well. There is a bit of height difference
> between the valve stems but that is pretty normal. Some valve seats need
> to be cut more than others which makes the valves sit a bit deeper or
> shallower in the head. What is apparent is that the lifters for the #1 and
> #3 exhaust valves sit closer to the center line of the case than the other
> lifters. This means there is definitely an issue with the cam or lifters
> which requires a full tear down of the engine. I am not exactly sure why
> this is, but I have seen new and reground cams with poor grind quality that
> results in damage to either the lobe or the lifter or both.
>
> You do have a couple options regarding a possible rebuild though. It will
> be less expensive to buy a long block from a reasonable builder and install
> it rather than have me tear down your block and re-build. Of course an
> inexpensive engine uses cheap parts that may lack in quality, but they do
> build a lot of them and they seem to run just fine. I am friends with the
> machinist at Tassi Inc. and he would be sure to pay close attention to
> anything he built for me. When I build an engine, even if re-using your
> pistons, cylinders and heads, I check everything.. Many hours of just
> measuring bore diameters, taper and round, checking deck heights, lapping
> cylinders, back cutting valves, crank and rod journal condition and size
> both in the case and on the forgings. Regardless of which re-build option
> you choose, there will be some additional costs either way. The rocker
> assemblies and push rods will need to be replaced with stock units, there
> may be some hoses, bolts, caps or seals that also need to be replaced.
>
> Purchased Long Block around $1000.00
> Additional material, gaskets, oil, tune up budget $200.00
> R&R labor allow 12-16 hours if things go smoothly $800.00
>
> If I tear down your engine and rebuild you are looking at around 32-40
> hours of time $2000.00 plus materials
> Materials TBD, assume new bearings, crank, cam, rods. New cam and lifters,
> reuse rods, crank and case (if they measure out), gasket kit. Hone and
> re-ring cylinders, re-cut valves and seats..
>
> ?I think his prices are very reasonable. I just need to think about all
> this. Even if I go with a new longblock, it's still around $2000. Being
> disabled, that's a lot of money for me. OTOH, I've had The B. for 20
> years; the only car I've ever owned. And probably the only one I ever will
> own, given my finances. My only other option is to sell her, as is. I
> still have the complete fuel injection system, along with a lot of other
> extra parts, even a spare door! What do you think I could get for her in a
> non-working condition?
>
> What do you guys think? I could really use some advice, taking in to
> consideration my economic condition.
>
> Lori & The Baroness, 71' SB, AT
>
> ?
>
>
> --
> "I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm happy to say I've finally
> won out over it."
> ---Elwood P. Dowd
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 14:25:25 -0700
> From: Mike Fisher <fisherfarms at gmail.com>
> To: T3 List <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Subject: Re: [T3] News on The Baroness
> Message-ID:
> <CAMFgKfe6WMmWokKaoT+cpKD__R24ACKV9gJadf64_oA493em+A at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> $500-$1000 with a bad engine. Better to buy a rebuilt longblock installed
> for $2000 and drive it.
>
> On Sat, Sep 20, 2014 at 2:17 PM, Fiesta Cranberry <fiestacranberry at gmail.com
>> wrote:
>
>> Just heard from the guy looking at The B. Just like you guys said, he
>> thinks it's the camshaft and/or lifters. Here's what he said:
>>
>>
>> I have some news? unfortunately it isn?t very good. I checked the valve
>> heights and performed a leak down test. They looked pretty good. Fairly
>> consistent and were sealing very well. There is a bit of height difference
>> between the valve stems but that is pretty normal. Some valve seats need
>> to be cut more than others which makes the valves sit a bit deeper or
>> shallower in the head. What is apparent is that the lifters for the #1 and
>> #3 exhaust valves sit closer to the center line of the case than the other
>> lifters. This means there is definitely an issue with the cam or lifters
>> which requires a full tear down of the engine. I am not exactly sure why
>> this is, but I have seen new and reground cams with poor grind quality that
>> results in damage to either the lobe or the lifter or both.
>>
>> You do have a couple options regarding a possible rebuild though. It will
>> be less expensive to buy a long block from a reasonable builder and install
>> it rather than have me tear down your block and re-build. Of course an
>> inexpensive engine uses cheap parts that may lack in quality, but they do
>> build a lot of them and they seem to run just fine. I am friends with the
>> machinist at Tassi Inc. and he would be sure to pay close attention to
>> anything he built for me. When I build an engine, even if re-using your
>> pistons, cylinders and heads, I check everything.. Many hours of just
>> measuring bore diameters, taper and round, checking deck heights, lapping
>> cylinders, back cutting valves, crank and rod journal condition and size
>> both in the case and on the forgings. Regardless of which re-build option
>> you choose, there will be some additional costs either way. The rocker
>> assemblies and push rods will need to be replaced with stock units, there
>> may be some hoses, bolts, caps or seals that also need to be replaced.
>>
>> Purchased Long Block around $1000.00
>> Additional material, gaskets, oil, tune up budget $200.00
>> R&R labor allow 12-16 hours if things go smoothly $800.00
>>
>> If I tear down your engine and rebuild you are looking at around 32-40
>> hours of time $2000.00 plus materials
>> Materials TBD, assume new bearings, crank, cam, rods. New cam and lifters,
>> reuse rods, crank and case (if they measure out), gasket kit. Hone and
>> re-ring cylinders, re-cut valves and seats..
>>
>> ?I think his prices are very reasonable. I just need to think about all
>> this. Even if I go with a new longblock, it's still around $2000. Being
>> disabled, that's a lot of money for me. OTOH, I've had The B. for 20
>> years; the only car I've ever owned. And probably the only one I ever will
>> own, given my finances. My only other option is to sell her, as is. I
>> still have the complete fuel injection system, along with a lot of other
>> extra parts, even a spare door! What do you think I could get for her in a
>> non-working condition?
>>
>> What do you guys think? I could really use some advice, taking in to
>> consideration my economic condition.
>>
>> Lori & The Baroness, 71' SB, AT
>>
>> ?
>>
>>
>> --
>> "I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm happy to say I've finally
>> won out over it."
>> ---Elwood P. Dowd
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>> To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:
>> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
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>
>
> --
> Eugene, Oregon
>
> http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mr_bojangles500/
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