[T3] Since I replaced the runner boots and all vacuum lines noticed

[William Jahn]

The point of me adjusting the TPS was to check that it did land reliably on
the park contact and to check if the contacts were worn and free of any oil
since I have not had it off since 97. I do have the info on how to adjust
it. It happened it was landing on the park contact /idle contact before as
it does now. With an ohm meter connected to 12 and 17 I turned it CW until
it stopped then CCW slowly until the ohm meter jumped to 0 then CCW one of
the degree marks from there and check it a few times to see if it landed in
the same spot, it did. It just happened to be off , I don't expect to
notice any difference driving , I am just ruling things out to get it to
run the best I can. I felt the idle contact was the most important , it's
there for a reason , don't know exactly what it's function is in relation
to what the ECU see's. Since most all of the issues my car's running has
only raise their hands at idle felt it was one thing worth looking at.
 I know my electric AAR does not always close completely, it's random , now
that I've not other vacuum leaks it idle's higher perhaps more air in being
drawn through that THING. Another thought since the idea seems to be it's
fuel vapor/oil from oil bath mix and mine lasted decades without issue
perhaps it's then ethanol in our fuel which is a percentage of alcohol +
who knows what else that causes them to stick ethanol= moisture oil vapor
and water don't mix might create a different sort of buildup over time , we
didn't have 10% ethanol in 2009 here. Perhaps introducing any cleaner
should be done on the vacuum side of the AAR rather than the side the oil
vapor enters the AAR port.The fuel vapor can only enter in the vacuum side
since there should be no fuel from the oil bath. Since this mix can creep
down to the heating coil we don't want any chemical washing it down there
so it would need to be down with the pipes down coil up. Perhaps once the
cleaner is allowed to work a hand vacuum pump with a container between the
vacuum pump and  oil bath side might draw this buildup out and into the
container like these brake bleeder kits work. A mix of acetone and ATF
might work since together both are a cleaner one evaporates one does not
one lubes one does not.

On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 8:10 AM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 5 Jun 2019 at 19:23, Keith Park wrote:
>
> > On a related note, has anyone ever come up with a way to adjust the flow
> > in the heated AAR's they used on the Automatic's?  They used the T4 one
> on
> > the auto's right?  I really need to raise the cold idle speed on the 2056
> > but they dont look adjustable, even if I get creative.
>
> Sounds like with larger displacement you need more idle enhancement. You
> could try putting 2 of our AARs in parallel, or see if you can find
> something
> similar from a larger engine to substitute for yours. Try something from
> Volvo, Saab, or BMW.
>
> BTW, the Type 4 and Type 3 electrically heated AARs have different
> orientations for the I/O ports, but the bodies are the same, so they look
> like
> they are probably alike inside. There's no adjustment; it's just a matter
> of
> how big the passages are inside. They should both go from fully open to
> fully
> closed, although fully closed is never perfect, and it's always possible
> that
> yours is sticking and is not fully opening.
>
> It's common for these to stick, so that might be a good place for you to
> start
> looking. It's difficult to take these apart, and even harder to put them
> back
> together. Try soaking in a mixture of acetone and ATF.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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