[T3] On my 73 Square's electric AAR . I did a bit to see.

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Sat Jun 15 15:05:23 PDT 2019

First I added a 1/4" female and male connector in one of those VW plastic
covers since I don't know what happened to the original plug , just slide
heat shrink over and twisted and soldered the short wires I cut from a seat
belt warning connector under the rear seat then heated the shrink to seal
it . Now I can plug it and unplug it. Then I checked the heater it read 14
ohm from the base ground end to the red lead positive end. Don't know what
it should read yet it seems to be ok.

 Then I screwed it to 2 blocks of wood hung up side down over a old glass
measuring cup and sprayed carb cleaner in the IAD side let it run though
the oil bath side a few times then wet a blue shop towel with carb spray
and fit in in each port to wipe any oil goop away a few times till clean .
Plugged the oil bath side shop towel tilted the valve so the oil bath side
was as low as possible then sprayed carb cleaner in the IAD side until it
ran out and am letting it sit. I know the shop towel is not a seal yet is
will at least allow the cleaner to work. The valve I could see through the
IAD side looked clean so I/m hoping this will free it up. It will  open
cold yet when hot sticks , it warm enough say a 2 mile drive if I tap the
side of the valve area it will almost close completely yet once it cools
off it seems full open so it does move heater seems good hoping it begins
to work . This is what I found holds the idle at 1300 RPM once plug the
line or tap the valve the idle is 1000 in park and about 900 in drive.
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