[T3] type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 143, Issue 10
Stephen Unsworth
s.unsworth816 at btinternet.com
Mon Aug 29 02:51:08 PDT 2022
311 611 015 K Genuine German Made ATE Type 3 Dual Circuit Master
Cylinders are still available in the U.K. They are LHD so we have to
modify the Brake Pipes to fit RHD Cars. £109.85 on VW Heritage eBay
Shop. Also available directly from VW Heritage, Custom and Commercial
and I suspect other Classic VW Parts specialists. You would not have pay
UK Tax ( VAT ) but would have to check Shipping and US Taxes !
Steve
------ Original Message ------
On Sunday, 28 Aug, 22 At 21:07,
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<br>
Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. Brake Hints! (jadney at vwtype3.org)<br>
2. Re: Brake Hints! (Keith Park)<br>
3. Re: Brake Hints! (William Jahn)<br>
4. Re: Brake Hints! (William Jahn)<br>
<br>
<br>
----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2022 01:05:22 -0500<br>
From: jadney at vwtype3.org<br>
To: type3 at vwtype3.org<br>
Subject: [T3] Brake Hints!<br>
Message-ID: <630B05A2.24197.26040F3 at jadney.vwtype3.org><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII<br>
<br>
I've been doing a lot of brake part rebuilding for Type 3 people this
summer, and one thing <br>
that I've noticed is that nobody does anything about their brake
hydraulics as long as it works.<br>
<br>
I'm writing to encourage everyone to take a bit of time to flush fresh
brake fluid thru their <br>
system every few years. Suck the old fluid out of the reservoir, refill
with fresh, dry, DoT-4, <br>
and flush this thru all 4 wheels until everything comes out clean.<br>
<br>
Standard brake fluid likes to absorb moisture right out of the air. It
does that even if you live in <br>
a dry climate. When it does that, it becomes corrosive. There are
several places where this is <br>
a problem: the mouth of the MC (master cylinder) is the worst of these.
I'm seeing MC after <br>
MC this summer with pitting just inside the mouth that has rendered
another MC as <br>
un-rebuildable.<br>
<br>
I used to see NOS OEM Type 3 MCs on ebay for about $125, but those seem
to have <br>
disappeared. The price is now ~$US250, and there don't seem to be many
of those. The <br>
price will be going up.<br>
<br>
I can send pitted MCs out to be sleeved. That increases your cost from
$65 (rebuilding) to <br>
around $200 (sleeving and rebuilding.) Sleeving is a great option, as
the stainless steel <br>
sleeve is a perfect match to the cast iron MC, but that extra expense
can be avoided if you <br>
would just flush good quality DoT-4 brake fluid thru your systems every
few years. This is <br>
cheap preventitive maintence. In the later years, VW started suggesting
doing this every 2 <br>
years. I think this is extreme for most of us, but most people
NEVER do it, and that's an <br>
expensive mistake. Have you ever flushed YOUR brake system?<br>
<br>
I HATE it when I have to email someone and tell them that their old MC
is not rebuildable for <br>
a reasonable price. Don't be one of those people.<br>
<br>
FYI, if you really care about your car and its brakes, switch to DoT-5
Silicone Brake Fluid. It <br>
does not absorb moisture and it doesn't become corrosive when it sits in
the car. It never <br>
needs to be flushed and replaced. I find that it extends the service
interval for MCs, wheel <br>
cylinders, and brake calipers almost indefinitely. It costs more up
front, but saves time, <br>
money and aggravation in the long run. I use it and recommend it for all
Type 3s. I have a <br>
writeup on installing and using it. Email me if you want a copy.<br>
<br>
And, BTW, if you have a few old Type 3 MCs lying around the garage
floor, thinking they are <br>
your backup spares, they are now junk. If they have been sitting
there for more than a few <br>
months with old brake fluid in them, they will need to be sleeved before
they will be usable. I'll <br>
pay shipping for cores for sleeving, just to keep them from being
trashed.<br>
<br>
thanks for reading,<br>
<br>
-- <br>
*******************************<br>
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org<br>
Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
*******************************<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 2<br>
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2022 09:49:04 -0400<br>
From: "Keith Park" <topnotch at nycap.rr.com><br>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Hints!<br>
Message-ID: <000001d8bae4$f0660fc0$d1322f40$@nycap.rr.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"<br>
<br>
Well put Jim! And yea, im one of those offenders that really needs
to<br>
flush. The Square is still DOT4, and I rebuilt the master in 1988
and<br>
haven?t touched it since, im pushing it... I did put a layer of
silicone<br>
grease on the exposed cylinder bore back in the day, and my car doesn?t
leak<br>
so its not damp down there but im making a mental note to self,<br>
Self... FLUSH the brakes in the spring!!!!<br>
<br>
Keith'<br>
<br>
<br>
Topnotch Restorations<br>
topnotch at nycap.rr.com<br>
<a target="_blank"
href="http://www.topnotchresto.com">http://www.topnotchresto.com</a><br>
71 Squareback? ?Hothe?<br>
65 Notchback? ?El Baja Rojo?<br>
93 RX7? ?Redstur?<br>
13 Subaru?Outback?"Blendin"<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: type3-vwtype3.org
<type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org> On<br>
Behalf Of jadney at vwtype3.org<br>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2022 2:05 AM<br>
To: type3 at vwtype3.org<br>
Subject: [T3] Brake Hints!<br>
<br>
I've been doing a lot of brake part rebuilding for Type 3 people
this<br>
summer, and one thing that I've noticed is that nobody does anything
about<br>
their brake hydraulics as long as it works.<br>
<br>
I'm writing to encourage everyone to take a bit of time to flush fresh
brake<br>
fluid thru their system every few years. Suck the old fluid out of
the<br>
reservoir, refill with fresh, dry, DoT-4, and flush this thru all 4
wheels<br>
until everything comes out clean.<br>
<br>
Standard brake fluid likes to absorb moisture right out of the air. It
does<br>
that even if you live in a dry climate. When it does that, it
becomes<br>
corrosive. There are several places where this is a problem: the mouth
of<br>
the MC (master cylinder) is the worst of these. I'm seeing MC after MC
this<br>
summer with pitting just inside the mouth that has rendered another MC
as<br>
un-rebuildable.<br>
<br>
I used to see NOS OEM Type 3 MCs on ebay for about $125, but those seem
to<br>
have disappeared. The price is now ~$US250, and there don't seem to be
many<br>
of those. The price will be going up.<br>
<br>
I can send pitted MCs out to be sleeved. That increases your cost from
$65<br>
(rebuilding) to around $200 (sleeving and rebuilding.) Sleeving is a
great<br>
option, as the stainless steel sleeve is a perfect match to the cast
iron<br>
MC, but that extra expense can be avoided if you would just flush
good<br>
quality DoT-4 brake fluid thru your systems every few years. This is
cheap<br>
preventitive maintence. In the later years, VW started suggesting doing
this<br>
every 2 years. I think this is extreme for most of us, but most
people<br>
NEVER do it, and that's an expensive mistake. Have you ever flushed
YOUR<br>
brake system?<br>
<br>
I HATE it when I have to email someone and tell them that their old MC
is<br>
not rebuildable for a reasonable price. Don't be one of those
people.<br>
<br>
FYI, if you really care about your car and its brakes, switch to
DoT-5<br>
Silicone Brake Fluid. It does not absorb moisture and it doesn't
become<br>
corrosive when it sits in the car. It never needs to be flushed and<br>
replaced. I find that it extends the service interval for MCs, wheel<br>
cylinders, and brake calipers almost indefinitely. It costs more up
front,<br>
but saves time, money and aggravation in the long run. I use it and<br>
recommend it for all Type 3s. I have a writeup on installing and using
it.<br>
Email me if you want a copy.<br>
<br>
And, BTW, if you have a few old Type 3 MCs lying around the garage
floor,<br>
thinking they are your backup spares, they are now junk. If they
have been<br>
sitting there for more than a few months with old brake fluid in them,
they<br>
will need to be sleeved before they will be usable. I'll pay shipping
for<br>
cores for sleeving, just to keep them from being trashed.<br>
<br>
thanks for reading,<br>
<br>
--<br>
*******************************<br>
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org<br>
Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
*******************************<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org To unsubscribe or
change<br>
subscription options, visit:<br>
<a target="_blank"
href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org">http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org</a><br>
If you need more help, contact: gregm at vwtype3.org<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 3<br>
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2022 12:56:57 -0700<br>
From: William Jahn <willjahn975 at gmail.com><br>
To: type3 at vwtype3.org<br>
Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Hints!<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CADD65r5fOmDY7brDfC1W9HvoMa5uTTC_s42eL1h3oNCPbRkx7Q at mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I worry about how long it's been since I replaced all the old fluid.
It's<br>
not that I never did , I remove as much from the reservoir then add
new.<br>
It's been since 98 since I replaced all the fluid. And new MCs are
not<br>
cheap. I read somewhere even new ones sitting too long , even plugged
might<br>
need new seals. I read this , but I don't know how true it is.<br>
<br>
On Sat, Aug 27, 2022 at 11:05 PM <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:<br>
<br>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="3"
bgcolor="#888888"></td><td width="3"></td><td width="3"></td><td>I've
been doing a lot of brake part rebuilding for Type 3 people this<br>
summer, and one thing<br>
that I've noticed is that nobody does anything about their brake<br>
hydraulics as long as it works.<br>
<br>
I'm writing to encourage everyone to take a bit of time to flush
fresh<br>
brake fluid thru their<br>
system every few years. Suck the old fluid out of the reservoir,
refill<br>
with fresh, dry, DoT-4,<br>
and flush this thru all 4 wheels until everything comes out clean.<br>
<br>
Standard brake fluid likes to absorb moisture right out of the air.
It<br>
does that even if you live in<br>
a dry climate. When it does that, it becomes corrosive. There are
several<br>
places where this is<br>
a problem: the mouth of the MC (master cylinder) is the worst of
these.<br>
I'm seeing MC after<br>
MC this summer with pitting just inside the mouth that has rendered<br>
another MC as<br>
un-rebuildable.<br>
<br>
I used to see NOS OEM Type 3 MCs on ebay for about $125, but those seem
to<br>
have<br>
disappeared. The price is now ~$US250, and there don't seem to be many
of<br>
those. The<br>
price will be going up.<br>
<br>
I can send pitted MCs out to be sleeved. That increases your cost from
$65<br>
(rebuilding) to<br>
around $200 (sleeving and rebuilding.) Sleeving is a great option, as
the<br>
stainless steel<br>
sleeve is a perfect match to the cast iron MC, but that extra expense
can<br>
be avoided if you<br>
would just flush good quality DoT-4 brake fluid thru your systems
every<br>
few years. This is<br>
cheap preventitive maintence. In the later years, VW started
suggesting<br>
doing this every 2<br>
years. I think this is extreme for most of us, but most people
NEVER do<br>
it, and that's an<br>
expensive mistake. Have you ever flushed YOUR brake system?<br>
<br>
I HATE it when I have to email someone and tell them that their old MC
is<br>
not rebuildable for<br>
a reasonable price. Don't be one of those people.<br>
<br>
FYI, if you really care about your car and its brakes, switch to
DoT-5<br>
Silicone Brake Fluid. It<br>
does not absorb moisture and it doesn't become corrosive when it sits
in<br>
the car. It never<br>
needs to be flushed and replaced. I find that it extends the service<br>
interval for MCs, wheel<br>
cylinders, and brake calipers almost indefinitely. It costs more up
front,<br>
but saves time,<br>
money and aggravation in the long run. I use it and recommend it for
all<br>
Type 3s. I have a<br>
writeup on installing and using it. Email me if you want a copy.<br>
<br>
And, BTW, if you have a few old Type 3 MCs lying around the garage
floor,<br>
thinking they are<br>
your backup spares, they are now junk. If they have been sitting
there<br>
for more than a few<br>
months with old brake fluid in them, they will need to be sleeved
before<br>
they will be usable. I'll<br>
pay shipping for cores for sleeving, just to keep them from being
trashed.<br>
<br>
thanks for reading,<br>
<br>
--<br>
*******************************<br>
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org<br>
Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
*******************************<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org<br>
To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:<br>
<a target="_blank"
href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org">http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org</a><br>
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<br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 4<br>
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2022 12:58:04 -0700<br>
From: William Jahn <willjahn975 at gmail.com><br>
To: type3 at vwtype3.org<br>
Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Hints!<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CADD65r5UmBkA+TGC-mtBaY9C_E6NNX+MUzTAgkxM+MvvgkW2mw at mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I'm not sure if gravity bleeding will make it possible to replace the
fluid.<br>
<br>
<br>
On Sun, Aug 28, 2022 at 12:56 PM William Jahn
<willjahn975 at gmail.com> wrote:<br>
<br>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="3"
bgcolor="#888888"></td><td width="3"></td><td width="3"></td><td>I worry
about how long it's been since I replaced all the old fluid. It's<br>
not that I never did , I remove as much from the reservoir then add
new.<br>
It's been since 98 since I replaced all the fluid. And new MCs are
not<br>
cheap. I read somewhere even new ones sitting too long , even plugged
might<br>
need new seals. I read this , but I don't know how true it is.<br>
<br>
On Sat, Aug 27, 2022 at 11:05 PM <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:<br>
<br>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="3"
bgcolor="#888888"></td><td width="3"></td><td width="3"></td><td>I've
been doing a lot of brake part rebuilding for Type 3 people this<br>
summer, and one thing<br>
that I've noticed is that nobody does anything about their brake<br>
hydraulics as long as it works.<br>
<br>
I'm writing to encourage everyone to take a bit of time to flush
fresh<br>
brake fluid thru their<br>
system every few years. Suck the old fluid out of the reservoir,
refill<br>
with fresh, dry, DoT-4,<br>
and flush this thru all 4 wheels until everything comes out clean.<br>
<br>
Standard brake fluid likes to absorb moisture right out of the air.
It<br>
does that even if you live in<br>
a dry climate. When it does that, it becomes corrosive. There are
several<br>
places where this is<br>
a problem: the mouth of the MC (master cylinder) is the worst of
these.<br>
I'm seeing MC after<br>
MC this summer with pitting just inside the mouth that has rendered<br>
another MC as<br>
un-rebuildable.<br>
<br>
I used to see NOS OEM Type 3 MCs on ebay for about $125, but those
seem<br>
to have<br>
disappeared. The price is now ~$US250, and there don't seem to be many
of<br>
those. The<br>
price will be going up.<br>
<br>
I can send pitted MCs out to be sleeved. That increases your cost
from<br>
$65 (rebuilding) to<br>
around $200 (sleeving and rebuilding.) Sleeving is a great option, as
the<br>
stainless steel<br>
sleeve is a perfect match to the cast iron MC, but that extra expense
can<br>
be avoided if you<br>
would just flush good quality DoT-4 brake fluid thru your systems
every<br>
few years. This is<br>
cheap preventitive maintence. In the later years, VW started
suggesting<br>
doing this every 2<br>
years. I think this is extreme for most of us, but most people
NEVER do<br>
it, and that's an<br>
expensive mistake. Have you ever flushed YOUR brake system?<br>
<br>
I HATE it when I have to email someone and tell them that their old MC
is<br>
not rebuildable for<br>
a reasonable price. Don't be one of those people.<br>
<br>
FYI, if you really care about your car and its brakes, switch to
DoT-5<br>
Silicone Brake Fluid. It<br>
does not absorb moisture and it doesn't become corrosive when it sits
in<br>
the car. It never<br>
needs to be flushed and replaced. I find that it extends the service<br>
interval for MCs, wheel<br>
cylinders, and brake calipers almost indefinitely. It costs more up<br>
front, but saves time,<br>
money and aggravation in the long run. I use it and recommend it for
all<br>
Type 3s. I have a<br>
writeup on installing and using it. Email me if you want a copy.<br>
<br>
And, BTW, if you have a few old Type 3 MCs lying around the garage
floor,<br>
thinking they are<br>
your backup spares, they are now junk. If they have been sitting
there<br>
for more than a few<br>
months with old brake fluid in them, they will need to be sleeved
before<br>
they will be usable. I'll<br>
pay shipping for cores for sleeving, just to keep them from being
trashed.<br>
<br>
thanks for reading,<br>
<br>
--<br>
*******************************<br>
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org<br>
Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
*******************************<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org<br>
To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:<br>
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href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org">http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org</a><br>
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<br>
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